MODIFICATION The FZ-1 - CB style

Chuck D. Bones

Circuit Wizard
I've been messing around with some old-school fuzzes for a while with less than satisfying results. Then I took a stab at the FZ-1A. The original was built with three PNP germanium transistors. Tried that on a breadboard but the sound was not good. I started searching for information on how that pedal should be biased. The first place I landed was on Smallbear's Fuzz-E-One project page. Very enlightening, Anyone building a leakage-biased circuit would do well to read that article. Turns out the transistors I had were not nearly leaky enough. This was the first time I had trouble finding Ge transistors in my stash that had high enough leakage. In fact, none of my PNPs passed muster, but I had some Soviet MP38A's that would work. Those are NPN, so I switched the polarities, followed Steve Daniels instructions on biasing and voilà! There was that buzz-saw "Satisfaction" tone I was after!

I wanted to fatten up the tone a bit. The bass is choked off by the last capacitor, just before the VOLUME control. I tried putting in the FATNESS control from Roger Mayer's Page-1 fuzz. Worked very well restoring the bottom end. I tweaked some of the R & C values a little bit to my taste. Roger's FATNESS control resembles the BMP Tone control, but with some important differences that make the full range useful. Roger Mayer is a genius.

At high gain it was a bit noisy, so I swapped in a JFET in the first stage. It's just an emitter follower, so going to a source follower didn't affect the tone other than making the noise all but disappear. I had to reduce C2 to get the low-end rolloff back to 60Hz.

At this point, it was time to layout a Vero board.

FZ-1A cb board 02.jpg

Since I had dialed-in the bias on the breadboard, I used the same transistors and resistors from the breadboard to build the Vero. For that reason, I skipped socketing the transistors.

FZ-1A cb mod 1.1a sch.png

That blue LED on the board (D2) acts as a 3V shunt regulator. I was out of 2.2nF caps, so I subbed 2.7nF on the board. R9 & R10 were selected in test to fine-tune the bias on Q2 & Q3, respectively.

I think I'm going to change the ATTACK pot to A50K; the bottom end of rotation is pretty touchy. Controls are (L-R) VOLUME, ATTACK, FATNESS.

FZ-1A cb front 02.jpg

FZ-1A cb innards 02.jpg

It doesn't have a name or labels yet.

If you're interested in building an FZ-1 type fuzz, the DAM FZ-673 is based on the FZ-1 and is available from PedalPCB as the Kilimanjaro Fuzz. Same goes for the Sola Sound Tone Bender Mark II a.k.a. Tone Vendor Mark II.

I thought I'd throw in a little discussion on PNP vs. NPN.
Back in the early 60's, transistor technology was pretty immature. Transistor were all germanium and the PNP ones had superior gain and noise performance. At the time, pedal builders had no choice but to use germanium PNP. PNP circuits tended to be designed with positive ground. Into the 70's, transistor design and manufacturing improved significantly. Transistor performance was getting better and better. Gain and bandwidth were going up, noise and leakage were going down and NPNs were just as good as PNPs, sometimes better. Silicon transistors had come on the scene and for most, but not all applications, silicon was vastly superior. Still, some pedal builders stuck to the old ways because there was something special about the tone of germanium transistor pedals, temperature drift notwithstanding. Almost all pedals were battery powered, and the ones that weren't had their own dedicated power supply built-in. Ground polarity was not an issue because pedals did not share a common power supply. Then along come the Boss pedals with power connectors on the side. If you daisy-chain the power to all of the pedals on your board, they had better all have the same ground polarity. Negative ground became the de facto standard. The old PNP-based pedals had positive ground, so what to do? Most builders stuck with vintage PNP transistors and added voltage inverters, like we see in the Kilimanjaro. There's no such thing as a free lunch, and in this case, the price to be paid is the extra expense and noise of the inverter. But there were some clever builders out there, like Jorge Tripps of Way Huge, who took advantage of the fact that as far as the signal is concerned, power and ground can be interchangeable. Take a look at the Way Huge Conquistador Fuzztortion (PedalPCB Vanquisher). It's all PNP, just turned upside-down to make the ground negative without using an inverter chip. The only catch is the power rail needs to be very clean. Not hard to do and in transistor-based pedals, clean power rails is already a requirement anyway. I started out with my FZ-1A breadboard using PNP transistors, upside-down with negative ground. But alas, I didn't have PNPs with enough leakage, so I switched over to NPN. Unless you are obsessed with using the exact same Ge PNP transistor part number that was used in those vintage pedals, I'm sure that you can find an NPN Ge that will sound just as good. I'm not advocating one vs. the other, just pointing out that there are options. For example, the Kilimanjaro could easily be built with NPN transistors and no inverter chip if you were so inclined.
 
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Damn, thanks for doing this stuff Chuck. I must admit that I've kind of slacked into a paint by numbers build mode and need to switch over to think mode. This is the sort of sludge killer that we need.
 
Two more things I should mention...
1. The various versions of the FZ-1 ran on 1.5V, 3V or 9V. I initially opted for 3V, which turned out to be the right choice when I switched over to a JFET 1st stage. In Steve Daniels's article, he specified bias voltages with a 1.6V rail. When I set the bias on mine, I more-or-less doubled the voltages since my rail voltage was approx. double.
2. Steve Daniels's write-up references an article in the Jan-Feb 1968 issue of Elementary Electronics. That magazine, and a ton of others, can be found here:
https://worldradiohistory.com/Elementary_Electronics_Master_Page.htm
Some of the scans are pretty rough, but it's cool to see what the state of the art was back 50+ years ago.
My initial electronics education came from reading Popular Electronics as a kid.
 
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Firstly Chuck I am delighted to see you have you own section now - in hindsight a bit of a no-brainer really!

I think I have read that you can simulate leakage by using a resistor from the power supply or collector to ground - or something like this. It makes me wonder how close we could get to the sound of Ge in a circuit like this with all Si trannies. I love the sound of my Ge fuzzes and boosts but worry that they might not be stable enough to be relied upon in the hot climate that I live in. As you know I have already built a good sounding Red Rooster boost using a 2N2222A and a treble cap to roll of a hint of high end. It sounds fantastic as a booster and for me does everything the Ge version did.

Anyway I want to try the circuit you drew above. I have plenty of MP38s. What sort of leakage is optimal? Is it a case of leakage/hfe, ie a ratio?
 
I think the main parameter of concern is leakage. Read and follow the Small Bear article I linked above. The important thing is to get the collector voltages on Q2 & Q3 at approx 1/2 Vcc. You can swap transistors, fiddle resistor values, or both. The trannies I used all had leakage below 100uA and I managed to dial them in. Higher leakage is usable, maybe even desirable, but that's what I had. Nothing magic about that part #. I had a bunch and some of them worked in this pedal. The hFEs were in to 60-70 range. Not saying that was optimal, it's what I had and it worked. Again, refer to the Small Bear article for guidance.
 
Good stuff!
It's funny how legacy things carry on when they're completely vestigial - even when it requires a significant workaround like an inverter chip.
 
Good stuff!
It's funny how legacy things carry on when they're completely vestigial - even when it requires a significant workaround like an inverter chip.

More like unnecessary workaround. One of my points above is that we don't need an inverter chip to switch polarities.
 
In response to HamishR's concerns about temperature drift, I share that concern and there are things we can do that will stabilize a transistor's operating point (bias) without altering the sound. Takes very few parts. I may experiment with that at some point. If someone else wants a go at it, I can provide some guidance.
 
I think I have read that you can simulate leakage by using a resistor from the power supply or collector to ground - or something like this. It makes me wonder how close we could get to the sound of Ge in a circuit like this with all Si trannies.

I'll answer that in two parts.

Approximating leakage with a resistor is very crude and inaccurate. The leakage mechanism in Ge transistors is reverse current thru the collector-base junction. That leakage is very temperature sensitive. The current that leaks from collector to base provides additional base current, which when multiplied by the hFE increases the collector current. That collector-base leakage is best modeled as a constant current because it does not change much if the collector voltage changes. If the circuit provides a low resistance path from base to emitter, then some, or most, of the collector-base leakage current gets shunted away and does not increase the collector current. Example: we can vary Q3's collector current in the FZ-1 by adjusting the value of R10. The nominal value for R10 is 10K. I needed to increase the collector current, so I increased R10 so that more of the collector-base leakage current was available to bias Q3 on. If Q3 had been more leaky, I would not have needed to increase R10 as much, if at all.

Approximating the germanium transistor sound with silicon...
If you want to experiment with this, build a Twin Face and see if you can find trimmer values that produce a "musically useful" sound and that sound doesn't change when you switch between Ge & Si. You may need to tweak some other resistor values as well. Or compare the sound of an EQD Black Ash with a Sola Sound Tone Bender Mark II. Same circuit, just different transistors. The fundamental differences between Si & Ge are saturation voltage, Vbe, leakage current and temperature sensitivity. That temperature sensitivity can take place over very short time periods and at high enough power, it adds additional non-linearity. Basically, as the collector dissipation changes, the local temperatures on the Ge crystal change causing the leakage current to change. This can happen in milliseconds or less. I've seen it on a curve tracer. It's a form of thermal runaway. The strength of this effect varies considerably from one transistor to the next. I suspect that is the cause of some of the sonic differences between Si & Ge. Many Ge transistors have less bandwidth than a typical silicon transistor, and that is easily approximated by a small (a few hundred pF) capacitor from collector to base. Or maybe it's all down to cork sniffing...

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After further thought, there are more differences between Si and Ge that can affect the tone. Many (most?) Ge transistors have a lower output impedance, which reduces the gain. To complicate matters further, that output impedance is non-linear which causes different distortion than we would get with a Si tranny. Most Ge trannys are slower than Si trannys and that smooths out the distortion.
 
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Oh no - some of what you say is starting to make sense! And while it may seem to be cork-sniffing to some it isn't really because there are definitely differences in more than just frequency response between Si and Ge transistor circuits.

For example I have built a few Red Rooster circuits with 2N2222A transistors and been perfectly happy with the results. I used a 1nF cap (with your help for where to put it) and it simulates the slight high-end drop off of Ge well enough for my purpose. I use it as a boost in front of another dirt box or overdriven amp. In those scenarios it does exactly what I want and is my favourite booster. It has all of the EQ I love about a Rangemaster and none of the temperature issues.

Does it overdrive by itself the way a Ge version does? No. It does break up but by itself into a clean sound it's not really very impressive - although I have found it useful. It is obviously quite different. For whatever reason the Ge versions feel and sound fatter, juicier and simply more fun. But for what I'm using it for the Si version is perfect.

And the word germanium sounds awesome. Who wouldn't want some germanium in their pedals? Silicon sounds like breast implants. Germanium sounds like cold-war era radioactive weaponry.
 
Indeed! The Soviet transistors add another layer of mojo. EG sells Geiger counters, maybe I should get one and check these transistors, who knows?

I made some tweaks to my FZ-1 in an effort to stabilize the bias. Here it is...

FZ-1 cb mod 1.2 breadboard.jpg

FZ-1 cb mod 1.2 sch.png
R9 & R13 provide some DC negative feedback which helps keep the collector current from drifting too much. C5 & C6 bypass R9 & R13 so we don't lose any gain. I had to bump up the base voltage by changing R7 & VR1 and adding R10. Tone and gain range are pretty much unchanged from the previous rev. I tried some other values, but these are the ones that worked.
 
I have to ask - what is the role of the blue LED? (I feel I should know this and have forgotten!) And why a 1N4003 on the power rather than a 1N5817 or 1N4001?
 
I have to ask - what is the role of the blue LED? (I feel I should know this and have forgotten!) And why a 1N4003 on the power rather than a 1N5817 or 1N4001?

Looks to me like the blue LED (in conjunction with R1) is clamping VCC, similar behavior to a zener diode. (somewhere in the neighborhood of AA battery voltage, depending on the LED)

1N4003 was likely chosen because there would be a fair amount of idle current flowing, and a slightly higher forward voltage drop wouldn't be a negative in this case.
 
Correct on all counts. A 3V zener or a stack of Si diodes would have worked in place of D2. Since I was dropping 9V down to 3V, any diode would have worked for D1, no need for a diode with low Vf. Nothing special about 1N4003, it was simply what came to hand.
 
I’ve had a FZ-1 breadboarded for over a year now, and I have yet to find transistors that make it work right. Every few months I get a new batch, and I’m still searching. Maybe I’ll start looking for NPN…
 
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I’ve had a FZ-1 breadboarded for over a year now, and I have yet to find transistors that make it work right. Every few months I get a new batch, and I’m still searching. Maybe I’ll start looking for NPN…
Maybe I can help? I do have a couple lying about the place.
 
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