This Week on the Breadboard: The 'lectric Mama Flanger

Chuck D. Bones

Circuit Wizard
I measured the clock freq range on my breadboard.
Fmin = 28.7KHz
Fmax = 272KHz

Those clock frequencies produce a BBD delay time (td) from 1.88ms to 17.8ms.

Flangers produce a series of notches in the freq response. The lowest freq notch occurs at 2 / td. The higher freq notches occur at odd multiples of the 1st notch freq. For instance, with Fclk = 51.2KHz, td is 10ms and the notches are at 200Hz, 600Hz, 1KHz, 1.4KHz, 1.8KHz, 2.2KHz, 2.6KHz, etc.

The bottom end of the RANGE control produces enough delay to get into the chorus range. Bumping C29 up to 680pF or 1nF will produce a stronger chorus effect. Be aware that slower sample rates produce more distortion and noise.

This article is worth a read:
https://www.sweetwater.com/insync/chorus-flange-and-phase-pedals-difference/
 
Last edited:

Bricksnbeatles

Well-known member
Can’t believe I missed this thread for months somehow. Would I be correct in assuming that with minimal tweaks this could be adapted to accept the big-boy Tap-LFO chip for additional control over waveshapes via the distort input of the chip, as well as tap-tempo subdivisions, and an additional bank of 8 waveforms?
I’ve just realized that the tapLFO lacks the offset CV of and depth CV inputs of the stompLFO, which are arguably the most important controls to have in a flanger, so while the additional 8 waveforms, wave-shaping ‘distort’ feature, and tap tempo subdivisions would be nice to have, it would be much more trouble to adapt to Chuck’s design than I initially was thinking about.
The stompLFO also has double the max speed of the TapLFO, so that’s pretty cool.
 

cooder

Well-known member
What. A. Crazy. Mofo.
In the best sense of the word.
Dial on the wave knob and it takes you through weird and wonderful whacky worlds of flanging LFOs, I wasn't quite prepared for how whacky it can get, lol....
Of course there's the more 'normal' flanger sounds as well that I better start myself off with to get fully into it, and yes having the blend knob is definitely a good move to be able to get it calmed down a bit. ;)
The colour knob makes a massive difference too and dialing the top range of that with internal trimmer is important; it scared the beejezuz out of me first when I dialed that up and got into feedback zone.
Awesome design, mad genius I'd say. And I'm glad I had another spare 3102 left here after Chuck hooked me up (via a generous you know who person here) to a 3207 as well.
It's all go, hold on to the swoosh and swirl. Time to celebrate with a bit of photobombing.

50AeEKB.jpg


4ANkp8u.jpg


4lkG3uK.jpg


58dwoyX.jpg


xzOmZJr.jpg


cIYNG3F.jpg


As you can see in the gutshots she's a bit of a tight affair in there, I had two caps mounted underneath board and the inductor was meant to go underneath as well. However, I had only a 1000uH inductor which measured on the CCCT 840uH. I might replace that with a closer to optoimum 750uH when I get some.
Thanks so much for the awesomesauce projects here, all hail Chuck and the Boneyard me thinks.
 

giovanni

Well-known member
What. A. Crazy. Mofo.
In the best sense of the word.
Dial on the wave knob and it takes you through weird and wonderful whacky worlds of flanging LFOs, I wasn't quite prepared for how whacky it can get, lol....
Of course there's the more 'normal' flanger sounds as well that I better start myself off with to get fully into it, and yes having the blend knob is definitely a good move to be able to get it calmed down a bit. ;)
The colour knob makes a massive difference too and dialing the top range of that with internal trimmer is important; it scared the beejezuz out of me first when I dialed that up and got into feedback zone.
Awesome design, mad genius I'd say. And I'm glad I had another spare 3102 left here after Chuck hooked me up (via a generous you know who person here) to a 3207 as well.
It's all go, hold on to the swoosh and swirl. Time to celebrate with a bit of photobombing.

50AeEKB.jpg


4ANkp8u.jpg


4lkG3uK.jpg


58dwoyX.jpg


xzOmZJr.jpg


cIYNG3F.jpg


As you can see in the gutshots she's a bit of a tight affair in there, I had two caps mounted underneath board and the inductor was meant to go underneath as well. However, I had only a 1000uH inductor which measured on the CCCT 840uH. I might replace that with a closer to optoimum 750uH when I get some.
Thanks so much for the awesomesauce projects here, all hail Chuck and the Boneyard me thinks.
Which PCB is that? Some existing flanger board that you used to build Chuck’s circuit?!?
 
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