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Tyrian Distortion

Mourguitars

Well-known member
Spent a week figuring how i was going to build this one , took some thinking a forum member suggested using sockets vs the way the build doc's recommend , did a mock up it looked awesome and a great idea...its a very tight build !

I reversed the IC's when putting in ( thanks for pointing that out Cybercow ! )...very rookie mistake and it blew the 10R.

Replaced the R2 Cybercow suggested check C2 and C4 so i replaced them..i unsoldered the IC put in new ones the right way...put in the LED (see below) and it worked !

Sounds Awesome ! Its a very quite pedal for having all the gain you will need...Other than my mistakes, i learned from them and glad i can unsolder in tight spots I'm glad this one is done !




Used sockets to put in the second IC....


This took some work, used header pins to connect to the board and used sockets underneath for the LED..it would have been tuff soldering it in..i often get this LED wrong and is the last thing i do...some builds I've done it is reversed from the norm...

Mike
 

dinkyguitar

New member
Spent a week figuring how i was going to build this one , took some thinking a forum member suggested using sockets vs the way the build doc's recommend , did a mock up it looked awesome and a great idea...its a very tight build !

I reversed the IC's when putting in ( thanks for pointing that out Cybercow ! )...very rookie mistake and it blew the 10R.

Replaced the R2 Cybercow suggested check C2 and C4 so i replaced them..i unsoldered the IC put in new ones the right way...put in the LED (see below) and it worked !

Sounds Awesome ! Its a very quite pedal for having all the gain you will need...Other than my mistakes, i learned from them and glad i can unsolder in tight spots I'm glad this one is done !




Used sockets to put in the second IC....


This took some work, used header pins to connect to the board and used sockets underneath for the LED..it would have been tuff soldering it in..i often get this LED wrong and is the last thing i do...some builds I've done it is reversed from the norm...

Mike
Hi,

New to the forum and was looking into building one of these.

Where did you buy those white and red caps from?

dinky,
 

dinkyguitar

New member
Thanks...

Looking over your build pics, why use a different capacitors for C27 & C11? Why those yellow 100p instead of the WIMA's?
 

Mourguitars

Well-known member
Hey DKG ! Welcome to the forum...

I just order parts off the build sheets and followed what's silk screened on the PCB , those spots called for the P's that are yellow or blue i have some that are light brown ect ...diffrent mfg.

Personally i like the WIMA's , but when i started out ...i bought a massive order from Tayda, i just went down the page list and bought all values in quan...alot were different in the Poly film caps..WIMA's are like .34 cents vs .06-10 cents each for like the KEMET's ( i like that i can read the value's on the top ) or the Grey ARCOTRONICS...the grey mfg has more values just not as pretty !

Starting out i wanted to have all parts on hand...shipping is expensive on just a few penny parts if you missed a few, so i made a small investment at first , then when reordering if in stock i went with the WIMA's on the most popular values

That little investment helped out when repairing / working on my rack effect gear that's getting old..i have the parts on hand

As far as subbing the pF with a NF...that i don't know...i think some on here do , members are quite helpful here on the forum and maybe someone else can chime in...good question !

Mike
 

Chuck D. Bones

Well-known member
I have caps of the same value from different manufacturers and they're different colors. I try to mix them up to make the board pretty. KEMET, WIMA, AVX all make good capacitors.
 
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