What’s on deck for you?

Danbieranowski

Well-known member
What builds or projects are you excited about for the near future? I just put in an order for 20+ different OD/Fuzz/Distortion boards to keep me busy, and I’m very curious to see how many of them sound nearly identical to each other. Gonna be a fun few months.
 

BPFuzz

Active member
I took a bit of everyones advice from my recent post and have a pretty large set of orders coming in (19 circuits?). 3 Big muff boards so I can make a few variations, Duo Phase, Parentheses, Cataclysm and Dark Rift which I plan to add the momentary feedback mod to.
Sold my stock Cataclysm and Muroidea yesterday to a friend after he finished playing on them for a few hours, so that'll pay for parts for a few more, lol.

First up though is a Mantle Fuzz and trying to troubleshoot my Delegate compressor.
 

Nostradoomus

Well-known member
I’ve never built a Klon before, have 2 boards showing up soonish with a Photon Vibe. Just ordered a Derailer and Softii in the latest sale.

I’m really trying to hammer down my enclosure etching transfer technique, I have so many completed circuits in drawers and bins that need a new home. I’m considering just getting a damn screen printing set up.

3 circuits I laid out (Marshall Lead 12 preamp, modded Dist+, Chuck’s Biggus Dickus) should be here from the fab house soon too, so that’s cool.
 

BPFuzz

Active member
I’m really trying to hammer down my enclosure etching transfer technique, I have so many completed circuits in drawers and bins that need a new home. I’m considering just getting a damn screen printing set up.
What method are you using? I'd been using laser printer paper and water, then rubbing it off. But have switched to blue press-n-peel. This one was done with a well used Ferric Chloride solution with fresh citric acid added to create an Edinburgh etch solution. scrubbing with a wire brush soon after I pulled it out got most of the sediment out of the fine details. Once this ferric chloride is depleted i'm going to switch to copper sulfate saline solution which is what printmakers use to etch "silver" metals. Apparently most of them advise not using ferric chloride for aluminum, despite how many people seem to use it in the guitar pedal community.
 

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Danbieranowski

Well-known member
I’ve never built a Klon before, have 2 boards showing up soonish with a Photon Vibe. Just ordered a Derailer and Softii in the latest sale.

I’m really trying to hammer down my enclosure etching transfer technique, I have so many completed circuits in drawers and bins that need a new home. I’m considering just getting a damn screen printing set up.

3 circuits I laid out (Marshall Lead 12 preamp, modded Dist+, Chuck’s Biggus Dickus) should be here from the fab house soon too, so that’s cool.
I grabbed a Klon to see what all the fuss is about too. We’ll see how that shakes out. Aside from that, make sure you share what you come up with for your enclosure stuff. I’ve been considering a low cost laser setup or something.
 

Danbieranowski

Well-known member
What method are you using? I'd been using laser printer paper and water, then rubbing it off. But have switched to blue press-n-peel. This one was done with a well used Ferric Chloride solution with fresh citric acid added to create an Edinburgh etch solution. scrubbing with a wire brush soon after I pulled it out got most of the sediment out of the fine details. Once this ferric chloride is depleted i'm going to switch to copper sulfate saline solution which is what printmakers use to etch "silver" metals. Apparently most of them advise not using ferric chloride for aluminum, despite how many people seem to use it in the guitar pedal community.
There’s a bunch of words I don’t understand here but one of these days I want to try this.
 

BPFuzz

Active member
There’s a bunch of words I don’t understand here but one of these days I want to try this.
Haha, it's not super complicated to get started with and not the only option. The very first etch I did was with vinegar/salt mixture and a q-tip attached to a 9v battery, but it took ages to do it that way by hand. Some people use lye, some use muriatic acid. I went with ferric chloride like they use to etch PCBs because it's the least caustic to skin. But there are quite a few tutorials on youtube that go through how it's done.
 

Danbieranowski

Well-known member
Haha, it's not super complicated to get started with and not the only option. The very first etch I did was with vinegar/salt mixture and a q-tip attached to a 9v battery, but it took ages to do it that way by hand. Some people use lye, some use muriatic acid. I went with ferric chloride like they use to etch PCBs because it's the least caustic to skin. But there are quite a few tutorials on youtube that go through how it's done.
I’m definitely mainly interested in keeping my skin!
 

BPFuzz

Active member
I’m definitely mainly interested in keeping my skin!
That was my main motivation for choosing ferric chloride, lol. When it's spent, the method of disposal recommended here in Japan is neutralizing it with soda ash, mixing it with cement and then placing it in the non-burnable trash. But if I was back in the US i'd probably take it to a chemical disposal site. Only concern I ever have with the ferric chloride is just making sure it doesn't land on anything important that's made of metal. But that hasn't been too difficult, lol.
 

rjkuyvenhoven

New member
Looking forward to finishing a Caesar Chorus, it would already be completed if I hadn't failed to include some 8n2 caps in my last parts order. I'm ready to do the final assembly of a Spirit Box and hope to start a Paragon soon. Plus I have another 5-6 builds that are 99% done that were waiting on parts that have now arrived.
 

Grubb

Well-known member
I've nearly finished a Muroidea, I've got everything for a LGSM ready to go, and I've got PCBs and/or parts en route for a Nobleman, Paragon, Triangulum, Parentheses, Malachite, Sanguine, Tyrian, Thermionic Deluxe, Complex OD and a Tommy III. The 20% discount lured me back in for a couple of extras after the recent 15% discount. Nearly covers shipping to Tasmania 😯😂

I'm basically only interested in building drives as I have all my modulation covered by production pedals. I've also built two different sized pedalboards since Boxing Day out of pine slats I had lying around. It's cheap and some might say ugly but it was free, I had fun doing it and it gives me more budget for actual pedals. More drives please!

On the Revv clones, I'm really keen to put them together in a 1590DD for the ultimate 3-channel amp in a box 😍
 

Dan0h

Well-known member
I have a Tso build and a 2nd Life pedal build in a 1590bb just waiting for one part each ready to go. Magnetron on the way and ordered a Caesar and a few Klones to build for friends. I was doing builds just on the weekends but now if I’m not in the basement soldering several nights a week I feel like something is wrong....
 

Dan0h

Well-known member
What builds or projects are you excited about for the near future? I just put in an order for 20+ different OD/Fuzz/Distortion boards to keep me busy, and I’m very curious to see how many of them sound nearly identical to each other. Gonna be a fun few months.
20+.... just the thought of the shipping savings doing a big batch like that sounds amazing. 👍🏼
 

Nostradoomus

Well-known member
What method are you using? I'd been using laser printer paper and water, then rubbing it off. But have switched to blue press-n-peel. This one was done with a well used Ferric Chloride solution with fresh citric acid added to create an Edinburgh etch solution. scrubbing with a wire brush soon after I pulled it out got most of the sediment out of the fine details. Once this ferric chloride is depleted i'm going to switch to copper sulfate saline solution which is what printmakers use to etch "silver" metals. Apparently most of them advise not using ferric chloride for aluminum, despite how many people seem to use it in the guitar pedal community.

I use caustic soda, it’s basically drain cleaner when you’re finished so easiest disposal. It’s mostly the paper that’s screwing me up, I bought 30 or so sheets of thin glossy cardstock paper at the local office supply store awhile back and it worked so well...then I went back to grab more and they had phased it out so I’ve been testing different kinds and nothing works as well. They all have some type of plastic coating on them that leaves white residue all over the negative spaces and it barely rubs off.

I’ve got PnP paper as well but even Pulsar seems to have changed their paper (now it’s light blue, used to be quite dark) and it kinda sucks now haha.
 

untamedfrontier

Well-known member
My 2 biggest projects coming up are to finally place my Tayda & digikey/mouser order to finish about 15 boards that are missing parts and to finish this C++ course I'm taking on LinkedInLearning. Hopefully I can make something fun with the terrarium
 

chongmagic

Well-known member
That was my main motivation for choosing ferric chloride, lol. When it's spent, the method of disposal recommended here in Japan is neutralizing it with soda ash, mixing it with cement and then placing it in the non-burnable trash. But if I was back in the US i'd probably take it to a chemical disposal site. Only concern I ever have with the ferric chloride is just making sure it doesn't land on anything important that's made of metal. But that hasn't been too difficult, lol.
What part of Japan do you live in?
 

Mcknib

Well-known member
Got a gauss drive, backfeeder and conquerer supreme to start

Unfortunately I'm in troubleshooting mode with a Sonomatic deluxe and an abductor delay I loaned out and got back hissing both delays, both hissing, so I'm currently trying to work out if it's a common component used in both or I'm just shit at building 4 x PT2399 delays saying that the abductor didn't hiss when I loaned it out
 
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