I have built a few pedals now and am curious what are the best options for the components that are used in every build. I have been less than satisfied with the tayda wire I have been using and wonder what are the preferred jack and dc jack options as well. What are you guys using?
What are your favorite components?
- Thread starter Ericmc
- Start date
Redspacecadet74
Active member
For audio jack sockets I prefer either the KLBPS-3 or KLBM-3 by Lumberg.
DGWVI
Well-known member
For wire, I use Remington 22 AWG Solid
These are my preferred jacks. They work, have ample wiring options, and I've never had them be too tight (or loose), which are issues I've had with Lumbergs. Though, when low profile is needed, the Lumbergs are my go-to
I like these power jacks- they're chonky, and enable me to build whatever completely outside of the enclosure
These are my preferred jacks. They work, have ample wiring options, and I've never had them be too tight (or loose), which are issues I've had with Lumbergs. Though, when low profile is needed, the Lumbergs are my go-to
I like these power jacks- they're chonky, and enable me to build whatever completely outside of the enclosure
Barry
Well-known member
Ditto and I prefer the hook up wire from GuitarPCB or Love My Switches
GizzWizzKing
Well-known member
I tried with stranded and very quickly hopped on solid. I use 22 awg and it works for all of my needs.
bhcarpenter
Well-known member
My current favs:
- Audio Jacks: https://stompboxparts.com/1-4-ts-enclosed-jack-panel-mount/
- Power Jacks: https://stompboxparts.com/jacks/dc-power-jack-2-1mm-low-profile-lumberg/
- Pots: https://stompboxparts.com/pots/16mm-potentiometer-short-pcb-leg/
- Footswitches: https://lovemyswitches.com/3pdt-latched-foot-switch-solder-lugs-old-blood-red/
- LEDs: https://www.taydaelectronics.com/led-3mm-red.html
- LED bezel: https://www.taydaelectronics.com/leds/led-holders-bezels/3mm-bezel-led-panel-mounting-clip.html
- Wire: https://smallbear-electronics.mybigcommerce.com/22-pre-bond-colors-50-ft-spool/ (fwiw I bought a ton a while back, so I haven’t tried other options recently)
- Audio Jacks: https://stompboxparts.com/1-4-ts-enclosed-jack-panel-mount/
- Power Jacks: https://stompboxparts.com/jacks/dc-power-jack-2-1mm-low-profile-lumberg/
- Pots: https://stompboxparts.com/pots/16mm-potentiometer-short-pcb-leg/
- Footswitches: https://lovemyswitches.com/3pdt-latched-foot-switch-solder-lugs-old-blood-red/
- LEDs: https://www.taydaelectronics.com/led-3mm-red.html
- LED bezel: https://www.taydaelectronics.com/leds/led-holders-bezels/3mm-bezel-led-panel-mounting-clip.html
- Wire: https://smallbear-electronics.mybigcommerce.com/22-pre-bond-colors-50-ft-spool/ (fwiw I bought a ton a while back, so I haven’t tried other options recently)
Redspacecadet74
Active member
Same here, I only use solid core wire.
Redspacecadet74
Active member
Totally agree, or alternatively Teflon insulated wire which is similarly heat resistant.
Laundryroom David
Keyboard Cowboy 🤠
I get wire (solid core or stranded topcoat) from a place near Ottawa called NextGen. That probably doesn’t help you.
I use actual Lumberg dc jacks. They’re multiple x the price of generic, but I just have a twitch about power jacks.
I use mono jacks from @StompBoxParts because the jacks have integrated wee sharp teeth that bite through overspray.
I use actual Lumberg dc jacks. They’re multiple x the price of generic, but I just have a twitch about power jacks.
I use mono jacks from @StompBoxParts because the jacks have integrated wee sharp teeth that bite through overspray.
Silver Blues
Well-known member
I prefer the Neutrik NYS229 for jacks, unless the build is super tight, in which case I'd use Lumbergs. For DC jacks I usually like the Cliff outies (or equivalent), but have been using the low-profile jacks more, too. I like to put soft-latch bypass systems in all my pedals, for the routine builds I use the basic SPST NO stomp switch from Tayda, but they have a nicer one that I use for fancier builds. I've recently discovered that the "Pro 3PDT" from LMS has a gorgeous feather-soft click, so I'll be using these in builds that require a 3PDT.
Wire is a tossup for me, I once got a whole bunch of decently nice Teflon-coated wire from somewhere on eBay that I am still using, so we'll see when that runs out. Not to spill too many trade secrets, but if I'm feeling extra special I'll use this wire, which is some of the nicest wire I've ever used.
@Laundryroom David do you have things shipped to you from Next Gen or do you go pick them up? I've been debating grabbing some things but it seems silly to pay $10 to ship something within the same city.
Wire is a tossup for me, I once got a whole bunch of decently nice Teflon-coated wire from somewhere on eBay that I am still using, so we'll see when that runs out. Not to spill too many trade secrets, but if I'm feeling extra special I'll use this wire, which is some of the nicest wire I've ever used.
@Laundryroom David do you have things shipped to you from Next Gen or do you go pick them up? I've been debating grabbing some things but it seems silly to pay $10 to ship something within the same city.
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andare
Well-known member
I've used the relay switch in my Squidward and the cheap momentary switch literally exploded in my face after a mere few uses. I soldered in a new one and now it doesn't even turn on anymore. No idea what I did there but those cheap soft clickers don't inspire confidence.
Still waiting for someone to make DC jacks with usable lugs. Everything is tiny and flimsy. They only work if you only solder one wire per lug so they're a pain for my eyelet board builds. I need to buy those handy power boards in my next order here.
I use 22awg silicone wire but I loathe tinning the ends because they become brittle and often don't fit the aforementioned unnecessarily tiny lugs and PCB pads.
I really don't like Lumberg jacks because of how and where the lugs are but I use them when space is limited.
Otherwise I use cheap enclosed jacks 125Bs. Sturdy enough for me and easy to replace if they fail.
I like machined IC sockets, I dislike pin sockets for transistors but love the expensive round ones.
I like to use glossy blue ceramic caps and hate the tiny brick colored discs.
I dislike Wima caps because they are expensive and they have short legs.
Hate all resistors because the bands are often useless and have to rely on a MM or my TC1 for the value. Some metal films I found have thicker leads and are much nicer to work with.
I like using 1590BB2 boxes for my fuzz builds. Plenty of space inside, clean, they accommodate two footswitches and large knobs and LEDs easily.
Can you tell I have a theme? I hate how impossibly tiny and flimsy everything in the pedal world is.
"Big tone is heavy and hard to carry. Always will be."
Tom Bukovac.
Still waiting for someone to make DC jacks with usable lugs. Everything is tiny and flimsy. They only work if you only solder one wire per lug so they're a pain for my eyelet board builds. I need to buy those handy power boards in my next order here.
I use 22awg silicone wire but I loathe tinning the ends because they become brittle and often don't fit the aforementioned unnecessarily tiny lugs and PCB pads.
I really don't like Lumberg jacks because of how and where the lugs are but I use them when space is limited.
Otherwise I use cheap enclosed jacks 125Bs. Sturdy enough for me and easy to replace if they fail.
I like machined IC sockets, I dislike pin sockets for transistors but love the expensive round ones.
I like to use glossy blue ceramic caps and hate the tiny brick colored discs.
I dislike Wima caps because they are expensive and they have short legs.
Hate all resistors because the bands are often useless and have to rely on a MM or my TC1 for the value. Some metal films I found have thicker leads and are much nicer to work with.
I like using 1590BB2 boxes for my fuzz builds. Plenty of space inside, clean, they accommodate two footswitches and large knobs and LEDs easily.
Can you tell I have a theme? I hate how impossibly tiny and flimsy everything in the pedal world is.
"Big tone is heavy and hard to carry. Always will be."
Tom Bukovac.
Laundryroom David
Keyboard Cowboy 🤠
I’m in Toronto, so I do shipping. Canada Post typically delivers next day … and NO IMPORT FEES!
I'm near Montreal, I've made sure to get enough to get free shipping, received it in 3 days. I had 2 12A jacks missing and the service was really nice and they shipped them super fast.
Silver Blues
Well-known member
No import fees is definitely a huge bonus 
Been getting roasted by that lately. Thanks for the input!
Been getting roasted by that lately. Thanks for the input!
Bricksnbeatles
Member known well
I’m a big fan of the large-bat toggles from LMS. Chunka chunka.
Taiway and carling for all of my mini toggle switches
I dig the cusack branded SBP pots but alpha are fine and what I get more of the time.
Lumberg for tight footprint open jacks and power. Switchcraft for regular open frame jacks. Neutrik for closed jacks
G&H are my preferred plugs, but I’m not too picky
Taiway and carling for all of my mini toggle switches
I dig the cusack branded SBP pots but alpha are fine and what I get more of the time.
Lumberg for tight footprint open jacks and power. Switchcraft for regular open frame jacks. Neutrik for closed jacks
G&H are my preferred plugs, but I’m not too picky
owlexifry
Well-known member
bro,
can i introduce you to my lord and saviour, solid core wire.
i once dabbled in the heathen ways of stranded copper, i was in despair.
trying to pass stranded wire through those little 2 pin DC jack lugs, was a long treacherous path of self-destruction. i can't believe how much suffering i let myself endure.
this was until solid core changed my life- the day i discovered tayda sells 22awg solid core at 10c/ft.
