Woodpecker Tremolo Q2 2N2646 Orientation

T

TCHarley

New member
Hi guys.

I am building a woodpecker tremolo and Q2 is a 2N2646. I ordered this part from Small Bear Electronics because that is the only place I could seem to find it. When it came time to solder it in it came to my attention that in order for the tab and the pins to match the printing the PCB, I would have to insert my 2N2646 in from the bottom of the PCB. Is this what I should be doing?

113

The "bottom view" shown there matches what is o the top side of the PCB, identifying the pin holes. If I insert from the top of the board as I would have expected it to go, the tab would be on the wrong side and Base 1 and Base 2 would be swapped.

Thanks in advance
 
This one has been a total nightmare. :LOL:

Ignore the metal tab on the silkscreen, it is not a reliable way to determine the correct orientation. The 2N2646 apparently has more than one pinout.

For the one sold by Smallbear you can bend the Emitter lead back between the B1 and B2 leads to make it fit on the top of the board properly.
 
Robert said:
This one has been a total nightmare. :LOL:

Ignore the metal tab on the silkscreen, it is not a reliable way to determine the correct orientation. The 2N2646 apparently has more than one pinout.

For the one sold by Smallbear you can bend the Emitter lead back between the B1 and B2 leads to make it fit on the top of the board properly.
Click to expand...
I thought that it might have been trouble based on the differences between the pcb diagram and the pcb itself. Thanks a lot for the help!
 
TCHarley said:
Yes it does! I just finished it the other night and tested, and haven't had a chance to go back to it. Any idea what to do?
Click to expand...

I was hoping someone else had an idea. I am not a big tremolo guy so this just went onto the shelf.
 
This one has been nothing but a struggle.... There have been a few successful builds, but far more failures than successes....

I received PCBs for the new version (V4) yesterday, just waiting for parts to arrive so I can build one and check it out.

The circuit has changed a bit, this one uses an in-production transistor instead of the 2N2646.
 
Robert said:
This one has been nothing but a struggle.... There have been a few successful builds, but far more failures than successes....

I received PCBs for the new version (V4) yesterday, just waiting for parts to arrive so I can build one and check it out.

The circuit has changed a bit, this one uses an in-production transistor instead of the 2N2646.
Click to expand...
So is there nothing I can do with the one I've got?
 
TCHarley said:
So is there nothing I can do with the one I've got?
Click to expand...

No no, I wasn't suggesting that.

I don't have one of these built at the moment to try this myself, but if you're feeling experimental....

Try each one of these modifications one at a time, test it after each one and see if there is any improvement.

  1. Remove R3 (100K)
  2. Disconnect lug 3 of the Depth pot, reconnect it using a 1uF electrolytic cap. (Positive lead to the Pad, Negative lead to Lug 3 of the pot)
  3. Increase the value of R7 (currently 470R) to 1K - 2K2.
  4. Increase the value of R6 (currently 39R) to 100R
Let me know if any of this helps.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Robert said:
No no, I wasn't suggesting that.

I don't have one of these built at the moment to try this myself, but if you're feeling experimental....

Try each one of these modifications one at a time, test it after each one and see if there is any improvement.

  1. Remove R3 (100K)
  2. Disconnect lug 3 of the Depth pot, reconnect it using a 1uF electrolytic cap. (Positive lead to the Pad, Negative lead to Lug 3 of the pot)
  3. Increase the value of R5 (currently 470R) to 1K - 2K2.
  4. Increase the value of R6 (currently 39R) to 100R
Let me know if any of this helps.
Click to expand...
Okay will do.
 
It is acceptable, I think there is some inherent wonkiness with this pedal. I think the 1uf helped the best and on the slow speeds it sounds pretty good the other side of the rate switch isn't my bag.
 
Robert said:
No no, I wasn't suggesting that.

I don't have one of these built at the moment to try this myself, but if you're feeling experimental....

Try each one of these modifications one at a time, test it after each one and see if there is any improvement.

  1. Remove R3 (100K)
  2. Disconnect lug 3 of the Depth pot, reconnect it using a 1uF electrolytic cap. (Positive lead to the Pad, Negative lead to Lug 3 of the pot)
  3. Increase the value of R7 (currently 470R) to 1K - 2K2.
  4. Increase the value of R6 (currently 39R) to 100R
Let me know if any of this helps.
Click to expand...
what were those resistor locations? I just want to clarify before I start any modifications.
 
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