Your best method for removing thorugh-hole components from a PCB

andare

Well-known member
Hi,

I'm trying to remove a 47uF electrolytic capacitor from a Minnow PCB that is 99% populated. Silly me soldered it where the 4.7uF cap goes...
I'd like to salvage this build because it is expensive and complicated for me but solder sucker and my puny 0.5mm solder wick aren't working.

What is your go-to method from removing through-hole components from a PCB?
Should I just use wider solder wick? 2mm?

Thanks in advance!
 
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Solder wick is ok but it may not be an easy task if it's a double-sided board with plated holes. Solder sucker would be better probably.
 
Solder wick is ok but it may not be an easy task if it's a double-sided board with plated holes. Solder sucker would be better probably.
As I wrote solder sucker is not working at all unfortunately. I'm very inexperienced but I suppose all PedalPCB boards are double-sided?
 
What kind of solder sucker do you have? I used to have a cheap one which came with a kit I bought when I started and it was useless. I bought one of these and removing components is much easier now


It still takes some patience but it's no longer an impossible task to remove a misplaced component.
 
That's basically the same as the one I had. It was useless imho. Someone else might be able to get them to work but I couldn't. The one I linked above was about £20 and has been invaluable since I bought it.
I found it for about 29 Euros on my local Amazon Poland, seems about the same price.
I'll try a wider desoldering braid first and if that doesn't work I'll get this sucker :)

Cheers!
 
I have yet my to figure out how to use solder wick. I usually use the solder sucker. Sometimes you have to add more solder to get more removed. Sometimes you have to sacrifice the component and snip it out of the circuit. Sometimes you lift a pad and are forced to get to know the schematic. All part of the game, I suppose…
 
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You need your both hands for this task and third "hand" to keep the board firmly while using a solder sucker. No time to heat the pads and reach for the solder sucker. Heat the pad and already keep tip of the solder sucker next to the pad. Remove the soldering iron and use the sucker immediately. Works even with a cheap one, from allegro ;) Sometimes it's necessary to repeat the sucking action twice or three times, depending on the amount of the heat you apply.
 
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Not very helpful, but it is my best method. ;)
Hope you get it fixed.
 
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I'm very inexperienced but I suppose all PedalPCB boards are double-sided?

Almost all modern fabricated PCBs will be double-sided / though-hole plated.

I add some solder to both pads then heat while pulling gently on the capacitor from the other side.

You don't want to force it, just enough pressure that it will move when the solder is hot enough. You could damage the pads or through-hole plating of the PCB if you aren't careful but I've been doing this so long now that I don't even think about it anymore.
 
You need your both hands for this task and third "hand" to keep the board firmly while using a solder sucker. No time to heat the pads and reach for the solder sucker. Heat the pad and already keep tip of the solder sucker next to the pad. Remove the soldering iron and use the sucker immediately. Works even with a cheap one, from allegro ;) Sometimes it's necessary to repeat the sucking action twice or three times, depending on the amount of the heat you apply.
That's how I use the solder sucker but no dice. I stopped after a while because I was afraid of overheating the PCB
 
Almost all modern fabricated PCBs will be double-sided / though-hole plated.

I add some solder to both pads then heat while pulling gently on the capacitor from the other side.

You don't want to force it, just enough pressure that it will move when the solder is hot enough. You could damage the pads or through-hole plating of the PCB if you aren't careful but I've been doing this so long now that I don't even think about it anymore.
Thanks I'll try that although I can't add solder under the capacitor because it's flush with the PCB and it's surrounded by components anyway. I always add electrolytics last.
 
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I'd agree with adding more solder doing that you can heat the edge of the joint and get your solder sucker right over the joint as it's melting

With a single 2 pin component I'd do what @PedalPCB suggests with the leads being so close together you should be able to heat both at the same time and gently wiggle it out and remove any remaining solder with your sucker

Again I'd add more solder first and cut the leads as much as possible
 
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Unless it's a super valuable part, I cut it out because it reduces the risk of damaging the pcb. You won't need as much heat to desolder. Then the problem is reduced to removing the solder and the little bit of lead left.

It's possible to do it even with one of those cheapo suckers. I put the board vertically, and place the solder sucker on the under side, with the tip flush against the pcb. It needs to create a vacuum to suck. Heat the component side with the iron, and start triggering the sucker once the solder is moving. You might need to pop it a few times to get everything out.

There are more precise tools for the job, but that's how I do it with the commonly available dingus.
 
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