Recent content by owlexifry

omg 😧

this may not apply to your scenario, but my dark rift build had noise in the repeats immediately from the get go. turns out many others have had this experience too. there's a few mods that can be done to address this noise. details

nah. i get most of my stuff from tayda. im sure there's nothing wrong at all with this. i didn't need a pound either. not sure about sourcing smaller quantities, but i can certainly vouch for the chipquik 'no clean'/water soluble option that ive linked earlier.

my understanding is that the closest to a G taper is W. if not W, then B can suffice (at least at the centre point, they will be the same) does depend on what the control is doing. when i was breadboarding a Boss MT-2, all of the EQ controls (except mid freq) require G (or W) taper. i subbed...

it's not really a case of 'better', it's just another option and i like it. i've never used kester. also there's like a hundred different types in the kester range, so when asking this question, you need to be comparing apples vs. apples. e.g. - tin/lead ratio - various ratios of lead-free...

ever since i got onto this particular solder recommended by @Nostradoomus it has made everything so much easier to clean. https://mou.sr/4shmU7g the flux is fully water soluble / washable. im not kidding, with this stuff you could just hose that build under a hot/warm tap, dry it off with a...

for which build?

i breadboarded both the sour grape fuzz and cleric fuzz just recently on the weekend, and compared them to my OG/V5 opamp muff build. the sour grape fuzz was weird. it has a lot of mids in a way that makes it sound more like an odd distortion than a muff fuzz. although people into the ‘tone...

farrk i wish my freehand was that tidy. looks great 👌

(input jack; output jack) "IN" refers to PCB input, "OUT" refers to PCB output.

uhhhhhhh

yep, same method with that style (tayda equivalents) https://www.taydaelectronics.com/flat-cylindrical-5mm-led-lampshade-protector-clear-plastic-clip.html i've found these are just a little bit smaller in diameter than the flatter/flush lens (seen in this build thread), so just have to be extra...

i tend to drill it a little bit smaller than what will fit (with a step bit), and then gently ream it with a round file until it barely fits, and then the lens just gets pushed/forced in and stays in.

✅ not gonna lie, this one goes pretty hard for the coin.