Can someone demystify “type 1” versus “type 2” DPDT switches for me?

[Caldo71]

I need to source an DPDT on-on-on mini toggle for my Disarray Distortion build, which “has to be a TYPE 2”.

I’ve searched exhaustively on the interwebz and 99.9% of everyone selling them does not even specify this “type”.

Can someone explain to me what the difference is and how I can suss it out BEFORE purchasing? I mean they can’t be that unicorn-rare if Suhr is loading them onto their Riot pedals daily...right...?...

 

[music6000]

I need to source an DPDT on-on-on mini toggle for my Disarray Distortion build, which “has to be a TYPE 2”.

I’ve searched exhaustively on the interwebz and 99.9% of everyone selling them does not even specify this “type”.

Can someone explain to me what the difference is and how I can suss it out BEFORE purchasing? I mean they can’t be that unicorn-rare if Suhr is loading them onto their Riot pedals daily...right...?...

Doesn't matter which way you rotate, They are opposite poles.
See what happens in Middle position! :

This is why Type 2 is what you need, 100-DP6-T200B1M1QE :
https://lovemyswitches.com/taiway-dpdt-on-on-on-switch-solder-lug-short-shaft/

 

[Caldo71]

@music6000 this is awesome, thank you. I get it now.

@PedalPCB you were asking me in my build thread where to source these? See music6000’s link above if you were asking for yourself!

 

[Diynot]

Smallbear has them as well. I had the same question for my superheterodyne build

 

[Feral Feline]

BUMP!

Bumped because someone else may come across this thread in a search (as I did).

Some of the other forum members (twebb6778 and ?) have suggested opening a Type 1 and swapping the internal bits around.

I've done so, 'twas fiddly, but just make sure it feels and sounds like a regular switch click before committing the modded switch to a build.
I had to reassemble mine a few dozen times *(due to learning curve) before I was satisfied with how it operated.

 

[ChrsGuit]

I need to source an DPDT on-on-on mini toggle for my Disarray Distortion build, which “has to be a TYPE 2”.

I’ve searched exhaustively on the interwebz and 99.9% of everyone selling them does not even specify this “type”.

Can someone explain to me what the difference is and how I can suss it out BEFORE purchasing? I mean they can’t be that unicorn-rare if Suhr is loading them onto their Riot pedals daily...right...?...

I'm two years late to the party, but I buy the majority of my stuff from Stompbox parts.
I was directed there by a friend who builds tons of pedals, and I like that they offer most of what I'm looking for... Plus it's geared specifically towards pedalbuilding, so you don't have to sort through thousands of unrelated components for machinery and other unrelated electronics. Their components are reputable name brands... like ic's from Texas instruments and electrolytic caps from Kemet and test very accurately (from what I have purchased so far)... so you can have a bit more peace of mind...

 

[music6000]

I'm two years late to the party, but I buy the majority of my stuff from Stompbox parts.
I was directed there by a friend who builds tons of pedals, and I like that they offer most of what I'm looking for... Plus it's geared specifically towards pedalbuilding, so you don't have to sort through thousands of unrelated components for machinery and other unrelated electronics. Their components are reputable name brands... like ic's from Texas instruments and electrolytic caps from Kemet and test very accurately (from what I have purchased so far)... so you can have a bit more peace of mind...

Stompbox parts is the last resort to purchase anything because of their International Postage rates policy!
The best way to resolve it is to design the PCB for the more common Type 1 which is available down the road!

 

[JTEX]

The best way to resolve it is to design the PCB for the more common Type 1 which is available down the road!

Hmm. Having just gone through the datasheets from four first-tier manufacturers (C&K, NKK, E-Switch, Multicomp Pro), they're all Type 2 according to the drawing from post #2 above. There's no mention of a specific "type" in any of these datasheets BTW. There are actual pin numbers specified, and in the middle, the connections are between pin 2-3, and 4-5. Here's an excerpt from E-Switch (my highlights):

 

[Cybercow]

While I've never seen any sort of "official" or "standard" definition for "Type x" of a DPDT (On-On-On) toggle switch, there definitely are two different "types" out there where the middle positions are internally reversed. Mouser, Tayda, LoveMySwitches, SmallBear and other vendors make no such distinction. And without a "standard" definition for that distinction between a "Type 1" or "Type 2", users of DPDT (On-On-On) toggle switches need to be aware of that distinction. Always best to meter them out before committing to solder.