Should I make an onboard "activator" (active buffer with benefits)?

JTEX

Well-known member
I'm thinking of making an onboard "activator" for passive guitars as a JTEX product. It's a very low noise and low power active buffer with a 3-way mode selector:

1. transparent buffer (unity gain, flat frequency response)
2. booster (same as 1, but with added gain (adjustable)
3. treble boost (same as 2, but with a rising frequency response).

It must be onboard to be able to bypass the 250k-to-1Meg passive volume, for the lowest possible noise (hiss) and the complete elimination of "tone suck" when rolling off.

Do you think there would be any interest for such a thing?
 
A few weeks ago I had someone ask if I could build something like the Mythos Blaster Boost, which I wasn't aware of. Clearly there's a market for these sorts of things still!

Think you could fit it into the footprint of the Stratocaster football jack cup like the Stratoblaster?
 
Think you could fit it into the footprint of the Stratocaster football jack cup like the Stratoblaster?
Nope. It will be on a small PCB attached to a post-buffer, low value volume pot that replaces the stock volume. Otherwise there's not much point in putting it onboard, most of its advantages would be lost.
 
This isn’t as advanced as what you’re suggesting. Same people that make the pedal the Transcendence is based on.
Thanks for the link, I wasn't aware of this product.

There's no buffer that I'd call advanced. It's a basic circuit block. The devil is in the details. You simply cannot get the full benefits of an onboard buffer unless you eliminate the standard high value volume pot between the pickups and the buffer, which is a significant source of hiss when backed up. In this situation, it greatly adds to the pickup's output impedance, ruining your noise floor. The Redeemer does not replace the volume, it comes after it (I checked their wiring diagrams). There goes the biggest advantage to having it onboard. You might as well put it in a pedal or belt pack with a short cable from the guitar, and it would work in just the same non-ideal way.

Also, it draws 3mA (for reference, mine's at 0.22mA), which is quite thirsty IMO for an onboard buffer. Their math is questionable, too. At 3mA, a 9V battery (~450mAh) would last about 150 hours, not the 300 they say. Moreover, the noise floor they quote (-125dBu) cannot physically happen except when the volume pot is fully cut, at which point a passive guitar would be even quieter (dead short on output, zero noise!).

Allow me to do some calculations. The pickups themselves, with the volume up, have at least 5kOhm of resistance (it gets a lot higher with the volume backed off), which sets the lowest theoretical noise floor out of the guitar to about -116 dBu, even if your buffer were an ideal "wire with gain". A 500k volume pot at 50% adds 250k of series resistance to the pickups, which bumps the noise floor to no less than -99dBu (17 dBs more, or 7 times the full-volume noise!). Add 60dB of small signal gain from a compressor + distortion, and your noise floor is now up at -39dBu. That's some forking loud hiss.

My buffer removes the 250k or 500k volume pot and replaces it with a 5k, post-buffer volume. At 50%, that pot is a 2.5k resistance to the output. That's worth, by itself, about -119dBu of noise over a 20kHz bandwidth. Add to that half of the combined noise (remember, the pot is at 50%) of the 5k pickups (-116dBu) + my buffer's self noise (-118dBu, the equivalent of a single 3k resistor). Comes down to about -116dBu, real life noise floor, with volume at 50% (uncorrelated noise adds in funny ways). Now, add the same 60dB of gain from i.e. a compressor + distortion, and you're up to -56dBu. HUGE difference from the -39dBu above. Like turning on Dolby C on a cassete player, if you've experienced that. You can now easily skip the noise gate.

Same guitar, same 50% volume setting, different buffers.

Apart from that, I commend the Redeemer's makers for the generally correct, no-nonsense explanations of how it works and why you'd want one. Too many makers spread bullshit in any number of audio subfields.

/endrant

Having said all this, I don't think I'll make this into a product, as it makes very little business sense. For starters, just the pot I want to use costs me about C$15 in small quantities (Bourns 91 series), and the op amp about C$4... And I won't make anything any less than the best that I know how to make, so I won't use any lesser parts.
 
I appreciate your explanations. By “advanced” I was referring to the gain and treble boost selections.

I totally agree with you, regarding the compromised approach of their buffer for a guitar system. I also think there’s a lot of merit in your approach, and you should cost it out, and decide what a realistic market price needs to be. If it ends up $170 (just pulling that out of my ass), it ends up being $170… You’re not needing to hit a price point to place something on a ToysRus shelf. But the higher the cost, to an extent, the harder the sales are to make. In any case, it’s your business, and you need to be comfortable with whatever makes business sense to you. But given what people seem to be spending on many aftermarket pickups these days, I wouldn’t be shy about charging what you need to to put out a product you’re proud of.
 
I would price it below $100, for sure. Rule of thumb I learned from Mr. GML: price it at about 5x the cost of the loose parts, and that usually puts it in the right ballpark.

I don't think I'll ever sell more than a handful anyway, but that's fine. JTEX is just a side hustle, mostly an avenue for me to sell some extras of the gadgets that I build for my own use anyway. This way I don't feel guilty for spending an inordinate amount of time and cash building one-offs.

I do already use this buffer BTW, it's pretty much the front end to my Shockman/<insert new name here>, and it greatly changed the way I play guitar. I'm no longer hesitant to back off the volume due to increased hiss and crappier tone, so I can get anything from heavy distortion to virtually clean without touching any effects. There's no going back.

While I'm here, here's a table I made that might help someone with noise estimations:

Screenshot 2023-06-29 125911.png
 
I'd be very interested in this if you rolled it out sub $100. Curious how well it would play with those impedance sensitive fuzzes.
 
I'd be very interested in this if you rolled it out sub $100. Curious how well it would play with those impedance sensitive fuzzes.
I wouldn't charge more. Not if I'm hoping to actually sell any...
 
Having said all this, I don't think I'll make this into a product, as it makes very little business sense. For starters, just the pot I want to use costs me about C$15 in small quantities (Bourns 91 series), and the op amp about C$4... And I won't make anything any less than the best that I know how to make, so I won't use any lesser parts.
What‘s special about the pot you need? I was pricing out some eurorack builds a while ago, and synthcube had Bourns 91 series pots for like $5us. Does yours need like a weird taper or multiple gangs or something?
 
What‘s special about the pot you need? I was pricing out some eurorack builds a while ago, and synthcube had Bourns 91 series pots for like $5us. Does yours need like a weird taper or multiple gangs or something?
If you do find a $5 Bourns 91-series pot, metal shaft, 5k log, that I can buy these days from a reputable distributor, I would appreciate the tip. Also, I am using Canadian dollars (C$), so my C$15 might be your US$11 or so. I'd actually prefer TT's P260P series pots, but they're even harder to find (in the right value) than Bourns. They're rated at 1000000 cycles.

So far I tried Mouser, Digi-Key, Farnell/Newark etc. Quality pots are getting harder and harder to find and more and more expensive - and I won't use the usual cheap stuff that uses the same design from pre-WW2 tube radios.
 
If you do find a $5 Bourns 91-series pot, metal shaft, 5k log, that I can buy these days from a reputable distributor, I would appreciate the tip. Also, I am using Canadian dollars (C$), so my C$15 might be your US$11 or so. I'd actually prefer TT's P260P series pots, but they're even harder to find (in the right value) than Bourns. They're rated at 1000000 cycles.

So far I tried Mouser, Digi-Key, Farnell/Newark etc. Quality pots are getting harder and harder to find and more and more expensive - and I won't use the usual cheap stuff that uses the same design from pre-WW2 tube radios.
I’ll keep an eye out. It looks like synthcube doesn’t carry as many values as they used to— they don’t have 5k, and they currently only have the plastic shaft version of the 91 series. Not sure if that’s a permanent change or not, but they used to have the metal shaft ones for roughly the same price
 
I’ll keep an eye out. It looks like synthcube doesn’t carry as many values as they used to— they don’t have 5k, and they currently only have the plastic shaft version of the 91 series. Not sure if that’s a permanent change or not, but they used to have the metal shaft ones for roughly the same price
Yeah, plastic shaft won't do it. It has to be rugged enough to use as a constantly tweaked volume pot on a touring pro's guitar, and last for the life of the instrument. TT won't even return my emails when I enquired about ordering 1000 pots factory direct - or the one time they did, they simply referred me back to their distributors. Thank you very much, but I have Google too, you know?
 
If you do find a $5 Bourns 91-series pot, metal shaft, 5k log, that I can buy these days from a reputable distributor, I would appreciate the tip. Also, I am using Canadian dollars (C$), so my C$15 might be your US$11 or so. I'd actually prefer TT's P260P series pots, but they're even harder to find (in the right value) than Bourns. They're rated at 1000000 cycles.

So far I tried Mouser, Digi-Key, Farnell/Newark etc. Quality pots are getting harder and harder to find and more and more expensive - and I won't use the usual cheap stuff that uses the same design from pre-WW2 tube radios.
Standard Bourns 91 pots don't have a long enough bushing for many of the back-routed basses I work on. Also, I prefer a post pot buffer/driver, which unfortunately adds another opamp or some other active stage. So I tend to just use pre-preamp volume pots, which is what my luthier clients all assume when winding their pickups. To me the clear answer would be low impedance pickups, which I'm lobbying hard for. ;)
 
Standard Bourns 91 pots don't have a long enough bushing for many of the back-routed basses I work on. Also, I prefer a post pot buffer/driver, which unfortunately adds another opamp or some other active stage. So I tend to just use pre-preamp volume pots, which is what my luthier clients all assume when winding their pickups. To me the clear answer would be low impedance pickups, which I'm lobbying hard for. ;)
This "activator" wouldn't be for basses, but for guitars. Bassists have plenty of active electronics to choose from, and they don't seem to mind installing something with more features than just a simple buffer. Still, the pot bushing length can be an issue for back routed guitars. There's a simple hack, though:
 

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Standard Bourns 91 pots don't have a long enough bushing for many of the back-routed basses I work on.
Didn’t even occur to me, since I used do pickguard mounted stuff. The guitar I’d be most interested in this preamp for is rear routed though, so good thinking.
@JTEX is that just a nut from a cliff style jack with interior threads tapped into the sleeve?
 
This "activator" wouldn't be for basses, but for guitars. Bassists have plenty of active electronics to choose from, and they don't seem to mind installing something with more features than just a simple buffer. Still, the pot bushing length can be an issue for back routed guitars. There's a simple hack, though:
Roger that, I think that all makes a bit more sense for guitar applications in general.
 
Didn’t even occur to me, since I used do pickguard mounted stuff. The guitar I’d be most interested in this preamp for is rear routed though, so good thinking.
My primary client uses softwood cores like spruce or cedar quite a bit, with contoured 1/4" hardwood caps, and I can usually make type 91 or type 95 pots work, but just barely. A lot of people dislike the low rotation torque though, IME. They do tend to last better than the vast majority of the alternatives I've tried, in any case.

I am a bit of a hater when it comes to pickguards or control plates on basses, but they sure make things easier in a few ways!
 
I just put together my first OPA205 buffer and measured it with my AP System Two.

Noise floor: AP says -114.2dBu. It's even lower in reality, about -116dBu, but the AP's own noise floor is close enough, at around -120dBu, that it adds to the measurement and degrades it a bit. -116dBu is the self noise of a single 5k resistor (or the coil resistance of a typical single coil pickup).

Max input level on a 9V battery: +9.8dBu (@ 0.0006% THD).

Works out to a dynamic range of about 126dB.

Not bad at all from 0.2 mA of juice!


Axtivator noise floor.jpg Axtivator max input @ low THD.jpg
 
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