Recent content by anevilspar7an

Whichever one you put the 'magic' diodes in. Just don't forget to goop it.

I'm actually going to suggest also looking at tube powered DIs. There is a company that does diy boards for a couple projects that post here. The site is called Conspiracy to Commit Electronics, give them a look to see if it's something that could work.

Hell yeah, it functions just like that and the pinout matches, I just need to search for one that is for 9v. Thank you very much Robert.

I think it is a voltage regulator, however the usual places I search to identify SMD parts haven't worked so if anyone can help I would greatly appreciate it. This chip is in the power supply section of a Joe Bonamassa signature Crybaby wah. Comes directly off the 9v port and a 100nF cap.

Sorry it took so long, the only board I had left was halfway done so I finished it up. I did deviate a bit to set mine up. I swapped R21 to 470R and R22 to 20K to balance how bright my dual LED is. I put the Range switch on an SPDT and put a ground lift on the Key In/Through loop.

I've got some working Muzzle boards that I'll reference for you when I'm off work, right off the bat I see some things that need to change though. The transistors should be soldered directly to the board since they are just regular 2N3904. You also don't need shielded wire for the gate in and...

I decided to tack on the 1/8w resistors when I ordered a bunch of enclosures from Tayda, that was the only way I could justify it. Mouser does have 1/8w, they are either too expensive or in the same package as 1/4w.

I know I'm bumping an old thread but I would like to provide some feedback with this board. @Robert: I love having a tiny active out but just need one more feature to make it perfect, all it needs is a phase reversal option.

Yeah, we are going to need some pics. The first obvious thing to do is to confirm R1, R13, R14, and R15 values. If that doesn't do it you need to make sure all solder joints around IC1 pin 3 are solid. Also make sure your IC is seated properly.

You may have a solder bridge somewhere. I would go back over each joint with your iron to make sure, I see some that look suspect.

@blackhatboojum Since you can do that with a fraudhacker board would I be able to use the PPCB Byzantium Flanger to do the same thing?

Could this be tweaked to work on an acoustic bass? Since I'm sure it makes some difference mine is an ESP LTD Thinline TL-4, which doesn't have a lot of resonance. It is pretty much dependent on the internal piezo pickup to function.

Thanks man, I do have rehearsal today so I'll see about getting some clips. That is just flux, I decided to be lazy and left it on the board when I pulled the trimpot out to make it an external control. I do appreciate you pointing it out though, anyone regardless of experience can make a mistake.

I have made some drop in modules that work with some 10 pin DuPont pin headers based on Chuck's rotary switch mods for the Tearjerker adapted to work with the ShamWah board as well. I made four modules to swap in and out of my guitar and bass wahs.

The entire post has been updated.