Wiring a 3-way diode clipping switch for a Rat?

[iamjackslackof]

Hey all,

I am building a Rat/Muroidea for a friend, and I want to add a switch using 3 pairs of different clipping diodes, like so:


This may be obvious/dumb (heh, *may*), but I get the principle, but not how to actually wire up the switch. I am using an SPDT On/Off/On like this one, which I assume will work. I'll also be using a bit of perf board to build a little breakout board for the off-board diodes. Presumably the outer pins of the switch will go to each pair of diodes on the perf, and the center pin will come from the board? The middle off position is throwing me off.

I'm also not sure the best way to connect into the PCB. I could pull all 3 pairs on perf, and jumper the empty diode pads over to the perf? Any ideas on this part would be great.

EDIT: And since I'm here, I'm contemplating the Ruetz mod on a switch, which is just lifting a resistor in and out of the circuit as far as I know, but I'm still iffy on the wiring of that, so if anyone has any input or examples of that, I'm all ears!

Thanks!

 

[iamjackslackof]

Actually, I think I know how I'd do the Ruetz mod, just run resistor to one lug and resistor PCB pad, center lug to other original resistor pad, and the other lug empty.

 

[Feral Feline]

Populate the board's existing clipping diode spaces with the LEDs.
Run a wire from FILTER's LUG1 to the SPDT's CENTRE-LUG (LUG2)

SW LUG1: solder anti-parallel clipping diodes of choice (Si for example) to the lug, the other end of the diodes go to ground — depending on where/how you place your switch, this could mean a diode lead going to the chosen ground point, or a wire connecting the lead to the ground point.





SW LUG3: As per your schematic, your other set of diodes (Ge for example), anti-parallel, go here with the other end going again to ground.
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IF you make one side of the switch asymmetrical, ie 3 diodes with two in series to the anti-parallel counterpart, measure the forward-voltage (fV) of the two in series to make sure their fV is still less than either LED on the board.




Orienting the switch to throw up and down, the above described arrangement would give you:

SWITCH UP — Ge clipping
SW CENTRE— LED clipping
SW DOWN — Si clipping


When the switch is off (centred), you have a Turbo Rat, the LEDs will clip. Flick the switch up or down and the signal will "ignore" the LEDs and take the easier path (lower fV) to ground via whichever diodes have been selected, Si or Ge.

 

[iamjackslackof]

Using the Filter pot's lug is genius, never would have thought of that!

Now I need to figure out the best grounding point for the vero board, I guess I could just run it to one of the jacks? Seems easier than trying to tie into the PCB.

Thank you!