The MOD Squad
- Thread starter Tassieviking
- Start date
Tassieviking
Active member
That looks like a nice and easy mod, I thought you would like the switching with the DPDT on-on-on switch since it just makes more sense. (Thanks Passinwind for that idea)
Did you work out the capacitance with C2 in series with the voicing caps ? I think that C2 will affect the value of the wet HPF caps just a tiny bit but the higher C2 is the less effect it will have.
I wonder if you can easily bend leg 3 of the BTDR2 module straight out instead of cutting it short, I will have to wait a while before I make another one since I bought one of every other board Nathan has for my round 2 builds. He was out of stock of the Bathtub PCB's when I bought the others.
Did you work out the capacitance with C2 in series with the voicing caps ? I think that C2 will affect the value of the wet HPF caps just a tiny bit but the higher C2 is the less effect it will have.
I wonder if you can easily bend leg 3 of the BTDR2 module straight out instead of cutting it short, I will have to wait a while before I make another one since I bought one of every other board Nathan has for my round 2 builds. He was out of stock of the Bathtub PCB's when I bought the others.
Good question, I’ll check my notes. My current build has a 1uF in place.
So, in terms of simply bending the pin, that would work well. However, I needed to cut Pin 3 because I had already installed the module for my previous design.
I checked how the capacitance of C2 would impact the Fc values. Because the Fc of C2 is so low compared the the voicing switch Fc's. It makes very little difference.
I did notice that I didn't change the Fc when I shift C2 down to 0.47uF. At this value, the Fc is between 50 - 40Hz at -3dB/octave depending on where the mix pot is set.
I think I'd go back to a C2 at 1uF which gives me a Fc ~20Hz.
0.68uF would get an Fc ~30Hz.
I checked how the capacitance of C2 would impact the Fc values. Because the Fc of C2 is so low compared the the voicing switch Fc's. It makes very little difference.
I did notice that I didn't change the Fc when I shift C2 down to 0.47uF. At this value, the Fc is between 50 - 40Hz at -3dB/octave depending on where the mix pot is set.
I think I'd go back to a C2 at 1uF which gives me a Fc ~20Hz.
0.68uF would get an Fc ~30Hz.
MichaelW
Well-known member
Ooooooooo, I like the idea of turning the Bassdude into a JTM45!
MichaelW
Well-known member
@Tassieviking On the BassDude=> JTM45 mod, would you recommend a fresh build or it's not a big deal to mod an existing build?
Tassieviking
Active member
I haven't tried it yet myself but when I do it will be on a new PCB, I just wanted to point out the possibilities that exists with the PCB.
If you do build one please post some pics of your build and let us know what you think.
Cheers
Mick
If you do build one please post some pics of your build and let us know what you think.
Cheers
Mick
Tassieviking
Active member
I like to read Rob Robinettes amp pages and I thought I might make myself a small 1-2watt Soldano SLO preamp and a separate poweramp and stick them in pedals, after I drew up the preamp schematic in KiCad I thought it looked very familiar and guess what ? It is nearly an exact copy of the Mesa Boogie Dual Rectifier preamp circuit, maybe more familiar to me as the C2CE Wrecking Ball pedal as I recently built one.
There are differences in component values and there is 1 resistor more in the Soldano SLO circuit, not too hard to change on a build.
On Rob Robinettes web page he describes some good mods to the Soldano SLO that would work fine with the Wrecking Ball pedal, I especially like the cold clipper resistor mod he describes, a switch to change from Soldano - Marshall - Grid Clip distortion. I think I have to try this mod on my next build for sure, and the whole page is good reading as well.
Heck, I might even build myself a Soldano SLO using the Wrecking Ball PCB, it is very easy to do, the only hitch would be getting an extra resistor between Valve 3 terminal 3 and the PCB. I guess I would most likely remove the pin that goes between the tube PCB and the main PCB for pin 3 and somehow jam a resistor in there.
Have a look at Robs pages and you will see what I mean, especially the cold clipper mod with 3 resistors and a switch.
https://robrobinette.com/How_the_Saldano_SLO-100_Works.htm#Cold_Clipper
Cheers
Mick
There are differences in component values and there is 1 resistor more in the Soldano SLO circuit, not too hard to change on a build.
On Rob Robinettes web page he describes some good mods to the Soldano SLO that would work fine with the Wrecking Ball pedal, I especially like the cold clipper resistor mod he describes, a switch to change from Soldano - Marshall - Grid Clip distortion. I think I have to try this mod on my next build for sure, and the whole page is good reading as well.
Heck, I might even build myself a Soldano SLO using the Wrecking Ball PCB, it is very easy to do, the only hitch would be getting an extra resistor between Valve 3 terminal 3 and the PCB. I guess I would most likely remove the pin that goes between the tube PCB and the main PCB for pin 3 and somehow jam a resistor in there.
Have a look at Robs pages and you will see what I mean, especially the cold clipper mod with 3 resistors and a switch.
https://robrobinette.com/How_the_Saldano_SLO-100_Works.htm#Cold_Clipper
Cheers
Mick