Building Shika fuzz on Double Muff board

[zeropluszero]

Looking to build Shika fuzz on double muff board - Would just like to clarify a few things.
As the tone pot is reversed on the Shika, are the following mods correct?

R17 - 3.3nf
R18 - 10nf
C10 - 33K
C11 - 33K

And as the pot values are 50K for the Shika - 1, would it make a huge difference if they were 100K and 2, if so, I understand I can solder 50K across pins 1 & 3 to bring them to 50K, but are these the top or bottom in the dual gang pots - I'm planning to use the A side for the Shika (I think the traces look like to the bottom row, but to confirm)

 

[Feral Feline]

Your DoubleMuffin's C10 should be 39k, according to the Shika schematic I have.
Same for DM's C11 — my Shika schematic has 39k listed.


✔ R17 — 3.3nf
✔ R18 — 10nf
C10 — 39K
C11 — 39K

1, would it make a huge difference if they were 100K?

1) I don't think so, but I haven't breadboarded the Shika yet.

2, if so, I understand I can solder 50K across pins 1 & 3 to bring them to 50K

Resistor across 1&3 will change the taper. You could pull apart a 50k dualgang and a 100k dualgang, but a resistor across is far easier and how much the taper changes, I don't know if it matters enough to warrant disassembling two dual-gangs to reassemble and risk them being faulty afterwards.

[#3] but are these the top or bottom in the dual gang pots?

For your convenience, I've colour-coded the PCB for any "GOTCHA!"s, which are mostly down the middle:

 

[zeropluszero]

Thanks, yeh the 33K was just a typo.
I'll give the resistor across 1&3 a go - I think it should be fine.

 

[zeropluszero]

For anyone who reads this, I did the mods
R17 - 3.3nf
R18 - 10nf
C10 - 39K
C11 - 39K
And the tone pot still rotates the opposite to the green russian I built on the other side.

 

[Feral Feline]

Thanks for the follow up.

I thought you wanted it to be reversed like on the Shika.

...
And the tone pot still rotates the opposite to the green russian I built on the other side.

That sentence now leads me to believe otherwise.

Just to clarify, you want the Shika-side's tone knob to behave like the Shika (reverse) — or while retaining the values of the Shika, have it behave like a normal Muff?


SHIKA ROTATION: What if... you ...
Swap the caps?
R17 = 10n
R18 = 3n3
Will it then behave as you wish?


MUFF STANDARD-ROTATION: If you want Shika values but regular good ol' spinning bass left and treble right...

R17 39k
R18 39k
C10 3n3
C11 10n


The mod of swapping caps-for-resistors and vice-versa resistors-for-caps was to achieve having the Shika's side rotate opposite to the Russian side — to compensate for the standard rotation of the pot;
the original Hizumitas and PedalPCB's Shika both achieve the opposite rotation by flipping the pot's outer lugs, not by swapping where the HPF & LPF are located.

So... as in the schematic snippet above — Regular rotation lug-numbering top down:
3
2
1


SHIKA:
1
2
3

If you look at the Shika schematic, it has the same exact orientation of the HPF & LPF resistors and capacitors as any Muff, just the TONE-pot's outer pins are swapped.


I don't know if I'm being clear or muddying the waters further here, hopefully the former.