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So here is my Bathtub Reverb for Bass. Was happy with the build and used a three way Guitar/Deep Guitar/Bass mod and LED patch thanks to #Tassieviking If you want this for bass, I must recommend the Bass mod for C2. I now get three different sound profiles which only extends the use of this...

Hey Bison, If you are looking for saturation and OD, I'd strongly recommend the Particle Accelerator PCB set from C2CE. There is a known way of bypassing the eq if you want to mod it and then it's pretty much the old SushiBox Space Heater. It's what I use as my first drive stage.

Just to let you know. I finished my build and it has exactly the same issue. So it looks like a fault in the batch. I also used Mick’s suggestions re the Norm/deep/bass and can confirm the bass is preserved on the bass setting Sounds good and the LED works!

Totally agree! You’ve helped me a lot, my modded BassDude wouldn’t have happened without it.

Thanks Mick 😎 It’s taken me a few goes to get my head around how these resistors fit. It just felt weird “shorting” the switch even though it is with such a high resistance… I’m with you now. With your 2P3T you have “Bass” labeled as C1+C2+C3 but drawn “Down” as C1+C3. I suspect that the...

I think this is how I’ll wire it… just need to drill that extra hole in my BTR

A suggested list available from Tayda C1 470nF 630V A-4849 C2 4u7F 400V A-3338 C3 22uF 400V A-3336

I was thinking about this mod for C2 in the Bathtub Reverb. C2 also isolates the Reverb module from the high plate voltage. Doesn't that mean all the mod caps should be rated for over 250V DC?

Very cool. Thanks Mick!

I’ve done it before :)

Count me in please! I’ll help with the graphics as well!!

Any chance the LED is in back to front? A simple test is using one of those flat 3V button batteries (with DC power disconnected obviously! 🤪) Or you could compare with a spare unused led? (long lead is +’ve).

Chongmagic, From the photo it is hard to check the soldering. I would recommend cleaning up any suspicious ones using some copper braid and re-applying fresh fluxed solder. I can’t see your DC reverse protecting diode in the photos. Could this be in back to front? I’ve accidentally reversed...

Yes, much more than you want. However, it won’t hurt the pedal but will run “quiet” if it’s a tube issue… which, by the sound of your solution, it is. I have a pair of quality long plate 12AU7’s and the Nobelium runs almost silent. I reckon “noise” is one of the more valid reasons to swap out...

I got a lot of hiss from some second hand tubes… could you borrow another pair? It doesn’t have to be 12AU7’s… you could try any swap-able tube like a 12ax7. If the hiss goes you know you’re up for new tubes.

Oh... and something I found helpful with this build. I'm using M3 screws for the XLR but I'm using an M3 Tap to cut the thread first... no split plastic! Just take care tapping the hole with the ground tab by holding the tab back into the body of the plug :)

Why not? One I just finished while I've been waiting on some custom box prints. Apparently a complete top-coat of gloss causes Tayda big problems [small bubbles]... They've tried 8 times and it's been over a month. I've suggested they either ditch the gloss coat or mirror my color layer :)...

Playing Bass, I’m really enjoying the combination of a Particle Accelerator into the Bass Dude. The Bass Dude is set just before break-up and the PA is set to nudge the BD over.

Ooh… you tempt me to keep modding! Stop it! My time and finances can’t keep up!! 🤪😊🤪

Great work Nathan! Looking at the schematic am I right in understanding that this will work fine on Bass guitar?