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Take a look at what Nathan from C2CE has done for his PCB's he sells, he has provided drill files and paint files for DIY'ers so they can get a professional finish on his DIY builds. The drill and paint files are for Tayda electronics but any good manufacturer could use them to drill and paint...

Have a great holiday Nathan and the Sushi clan, I have been wondering about getting some C2CE PCB's so you get some more pocket money for your holiday. If you take them camping there won't be any shops for the girls to look in, those shops can be a wallet killer.

Bath Tub Reverb- SamuelG did a very nice mod to his Bath Tub pedal by adding a normal/deep/bass switch to his build. All it involves is to add more capacitance to C2 to allow more deep frequencies through, he did this by installing C2 and leaving the legs long enough to add some wires to run to...

This might be one mod on the BassDude that not many have thought of, change a few values on some components and add a second Bright cap on top of R12 and you have a Marshall JTM45 preamp, of course the JTM45 has 2 channels, one with and one without Bright caps so place both caps on a switch if...

The next mod I am going to show is more about what can be done to the BassDude, I think I only placed the Bright cap on a switch on my first BassDude. When we look at the Bassdude it becomes obvious it is a copy of an earlier Bassman, the Bassman 5D6-A and the 5E6 both match the BassDude...

When I do the pots and switches I always place them on the PCB and then I carefully line it up with the box and then screw the pots and switches down hard before I solder the pots and switches. You need to have the pots and switches mounted in the box before you solder them in, sometimes I put a...

The Next has to be the Ambassador circuit itself, if you want to use it for Bass I would make the following changes. Cathode bypass capacitors C11 C12 C13 need to be 22uF but 47uF is ok as well if you play a 5 string. Coupling capacitors C7 and C8 I would change to 47nF Remove the bright caps C5...

The first one I am going to screw with.....I mean show is the Ambassador tone stack, that is one weird adaptation of the Marshal or Bassman tone stack. There is no Bass pot, the knob labeled Bass is in the position the Mid pot is normally in and the original Bass pot is just gone, shorted out...

This Thread is for any and all mods that people want to share, I love modding circuits if I can make it more useful to me. I especially like to add deep switches and Bass switches along with Bright switches so I can use the pedals for Bass and guitar. I like to use the Tube calculators on the...

What is the actual voltage that is going into the pedal ? Cheap power supplies can often provide a lot higher voltage then they claim, the ALD7555 timer IC you used should only be used between 2V to 10V so you should never run the pedal at more then 10V. I would replace the ALD7555 with a 555...

I think the closest to flat you will get is with the Bass on 5 and Treble on 6. The tone stack is very close to a Fender E series tone stack, the closest I can set the TSC for for this tone stack is Bass 5 and Treble 6. Here is the TSC set up as close as you can get it, play with the sliders and...

Here is another modification that I would like to see on the Nobelium PCB, it is moving the XLR trim pot a little bit. While I move the trim pot a little bit I would also add a 9mm pot right on top of the mounting post hole and wire that in parallel to the trim pot, now we would have a trim pot...

I was thinking more of how the "Steddi Go" was wired so both outputs shared the volume pot, that way you would not need the trimpot. Just tap of the volume pot to go to the XLR PCB, C9 on the right terminal goes to the viper of the pot and the square pad of the pot is a ground.

If you are not going to use the 1/4" output at all then you don't need C9 or any of the components to the right of C9 on the schematic, if that's the way you are going then replace the volume pot with an A500k pot and then pick the signal from the viper of the pot up on the right hole of C9 and...

I like to mod my PCB builds and sometime I think a mod should be permanent, If anyone else would like to see a change to any PCB post it here. I want to start with one of the best C2CE PCB's the Nobelium. I made a small change to my first Nobelium that gave me 2 diferent HPF frequencies, I cut...

If you mean for the LED to work then a jumper from the left side of R12 to the 2 pins on the right side of the tube PCB header. If you look at the drawing on post 14 you can see where the trace should be but 2 different PCB's have had a broken trace. Post 15 shows a photo with the link in place...

I think that Mr Sushi "Nathan" Box should borrow this post and the audio files for the C2CE website on the Unagi E-4305 page, and also on the Steddi Go and Nobelium pages as well to help people work out what transformer they want to use. Well done young fellah. ( Unless the 58 is your birth year...

If you remove the nuts and washers from the switch on the XLR PCB it will be easier to align the switch with the slot on the enclosure.

Well I placed one of each on my tube order for the last batch of PCB's I got, man 22 tubes get expensive but it should keep me occupied most of the winter I hope. And now I need more enclosures as well from Tayda but they can wait a while, I should have the box for the Steddi Go and the Wrecking...

Nathan, in the BOM for the Steddi Go it mentions a 12AT7 or a 12AX7 as the tube, what would be the difference between the two tubes apart from a gain of 60 or 100 ? Is it a coin toss which one I should use or split the difference and go for a 5751 tube with a gain of 70 ? Cheers Mick