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I think you are miss understanding me a bit, I am not disputing what you are saying, I am adding that from an engineering point of view you still need to take into account the few hidden traces and hidden flood fills that are on the 2 internal invisible layers. I am happy you got yours to work...

The XLR uses only tube 1 that's on the left when you look from the back, the one that is above the Nobelium writing. The 1/4" output uses both tubes. Swap your tubes around and see if it is any better on the XLR output, or try another 12AU7 tube in Tube 1 position. The 12AU7 has a gain of about...

There are hidden traces on the internal layers you can't see, and you can not see the amount of shielding the internal layers provide between the front and the back. On this design you can see most of the traces but not all that are there, I think there is a full layer of copper internally that...

There is a great dude on TB who was talking about a pedal amp and I sent him a link for a small 30W pedal from Asia somewhere, 2 weeks later he sent me a photo of the insides of the little power amp pedal and that is where the Class D AP3001 module idea came from. I believe he was going to mount...

There are usually 4 copper layers in most of the C2CE PCB's that I have noticed, the 2 internal layers are often flood filled so they act as shields as well as conducting electricity. It would be impossible to really make a comment on the signals without seeing the how all the layers are made...

What is your cheap combo amp you want to strip ? Hopefully you will find a circuit where you can use all the pot holes in the front panel, I have seen a few cheap amps retrofitted with a great tube amp inside and you could never tell from the front.

You are right that the Bass setting would be C1 + C3 only, I drew it up in the middle of the night and I did it fast so I made a mistake. I like mistakes because you learn the best when you do it wrong, as long as no one gets hurt. I picked up the 3 way switching from "PassinWind" on the TB...

That power supply is great for experimenting with, I ended up using that circuit to power a 1 watt amplifier pedal I made. I used the power amp part of Rob Robinette's 1 watt Bassman 5F6A-M amplifier with that same circuit power supply but I made it all onto one PCB which fitted into a 1590BB...

What we really need is for a C2CE pedal that is a small tube power amp pedal, I built one for myself using the C2CE power supply and it puts out about 1 watt. I used a "Musical Power Supplies" output transformer because it goes low enough for Bass guitar as well, and I built the AMP part of a...

You can also get some nice power amps in pedal form these days, they are not that powerful but for guitar they are plenty strong enough. I have seen several pedals that go up to 50 watts and more, and plenty that are lower power as well. For a practice amp I would just get a small class D amp...

I would just put the class AB amp in the box and run the Sushi......ops.......the C2CE pedals into it, but since I have built nearly all the pedals I can just use the tone I want on the day. I haven't completed my Wrecking Ball yet (box being made by Tayda right now) and I am also waiting for...

The resistors are in the wrong place, if you remove the resistors it will work fine. (just bridge them out) The resistors would go from 2-5 and 2-6 on that drawing, they are not needed but I would put them in so the caps can sort of reach the right voltage level in case they are switched in. I...

Just a heads up for anyone ordering an enclosure from Tayda for a Wrecking Ball, you will need to order extra drill holes because only 40 holes are included in the normal drill service and the Wrecking Ball has 42 holes in the drill files. I just deleted the 2 holes for the in / out jacks on my...

For people like me who live NOT in the US I could just do with ordering the PCB since it would take about 2 weeks before it arrives Under Downunder at my place, so I don't need the build docs for 2 weeks after I order the PCB. I think the drill files and artwork is more important to me since...

I bought a digital voltmeter / ammeter from Tayda and put a male and a female 2.1mm DC plug on it, I just place it between my power supply and the pedal I am checking. The voltmeter-Ammeter cost me a huge $1.59, I was lucky I had plenty of spare DC plugs and sockets or I might have been in...

And don't forget the Artwork files that go with the Drill template. I have some spare Unagi transformers so I just need the PCB as well, and the PCB will usually take about 2 weeks to get to me Under Downunder. If I could order the PCB I would not need the Artwork or the Drill Template...

This is the reason I have several jewelers loupe's on my workbench, I have 10x, 20x, and 30x magnification just to inspect my solder joints on all my builds. My loupes are cheap ones from fleabay but they do the job perfectly, I would advice everyone to get some of these because you will be...

For a flat response you want the Bass and Treble on 0, if you turn the Bass up it increases the bass response but if you leave the Bass on 0 and turn up the Treble then the treble increases and it will cut some of the bass as well. Nobelium uses a standard Fender tone stack except the mid is set...

If I did it on a HV capacitor I think I would add a resistor (2M-5M) to each extra cap to pre-charge it up to HV, I don't think the resistor will change anything tone wise but will help with pops and arching in the switch. The caps would have to be HV caps just like they are paralleling. I don't...

It makes it a lot easier to understand when you see the graphs for the frequencies, that's why I love the Ampbooks calculators. I only found them last year myself, I have hardly ever worked on anything with tubes until very recently, the only times I did was on some very old machines in a...