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Did you draw the numbers on your drawing back to front on your resistance measurements ? You have 1k5 between the input to pin 3 on V1, that should be on pin 7 on V1, run the numbers in the opposite direction and see if it makes sense. The pin you marked as No4 is actually number 6 on the socket...

If you have to desolder daughter board it is best to cut all the pins first so you can desolder them one at a time, you just have to replace the pin header. It is very hard to desolder anything with multiple pins without damaging the PCB tracks.

Make sure that the pins from the tube sockets cant touch anything on the main PCB, I always trim them right down and also the pin header pins. Cut off the excess leads from the solder side if you can. I think some of the tube socket pins can scratch on the main PCB if you don't trim them down...

I usually use the 10uF 400V capacitors from Tayda, they are 10mm x 16mm P5 and they fit with no problems. I do not think you would fit anything longer then 16mm, but there might be some out there that are 17mm that could get squeezed in there. 20mm will not fit at all so don't even try, I just...

I can not see anything wrong but the photos are not that clear, have you got voltage on the reverb module ? Pin 1 should be +5V and pin 2 should be ground.

Thanks, that works fine as soon as I remove the .PDF on the end.

That's fair enough, if you ever get tired of keeping that PCB I will gladly buy it of you but I am not going to hold my breath while you think about it. If you happen to have several PCB's from ones that have gone to the boneyard I would love the chance to buy one, I just need the PCB and...

If you can't attach the file it is most likely not a supported file on this site, just add .PDF to the file ending. Don't rename the file itself but place the .PDF after the .AI or whatever the file extension is. (File.AI.PDF) We just have to remove the .PDF once we download it and all is good...

Perhaps you could just sell some of the old 4 tube Supersonic PCB's, I will certainly buy one if you restock with the previous version PCB's. Was there a reason why you stopped the 4 tube version apart from wanting to update it ? I would love a Supersonic Phoenix, I would buy any PCB you bring...

This is not the new Supersonic, the Supersonic is a version of the Bogner Uberschall amplifier. The wrecking Ball is a version of the Mesa Boogie Dual Rectifier Solo - Red Chanel. I'm hoping the supersonic is still coming in the future.

Since I can't sleep again I ran it through TSC, not much difference between the two. The Mid pot stays on full since it is just a resistor in the Nobelium. Standard Tonestack...

Where are you checking for a signal, at the XLR or the 1/4" out jack ? You should be able to check the XLR output by putting a 1/4" jack there instead of the transformer board. If you check the XLR try with different tubes in V1 and no tube in V2. That way you are testing the first half of the...

I would use one jack and switch from the output to the viper of the volume pot. I would leave the XLR circuit alone

I think the Sushi Box Neptunium pedal is basically the Nobelium up to the volume pot, the volume pot goes straight to the 1/4" output. (maybe through a capacitor). The Neptunium is supposed to be the first half of the Nobelium as far as I know, just the one tube. I think I might even mod my...

Good news and bad news. Good, very nice solder work Bad, I can't see anything wrong at all. Hopefully someone else have better eyes then mine I think the 2 wires running to the XLR board can be used as a line out for testing, the transformer changes it from normal line output to balanced...

My main problem with mounting a heatsink with a cable tie is that you can not get a good thermal connection between the component and the heatsink, in fact, I doubt that even 50% of the heat would make it across. You need to clamp the heatsink to the object giving off heat, and they have to fit...

The Noble comes with cable ties holding the heatsinks to the voltage regulators, at least in all the photos I have seen, that is a really bad idea since cable ties will degrade with time and especially when they get hot. Heatsinks should be mounted properly with screws or the correct clips made...

What would be the best delay time on the BTDR2 module? I think medium might be best or should I go for a long delay ? The SMD boards I have are spaced like the BTDR3 modules so they are no good in this build so I might as well buy a BTDR2 module. Any recommendations from anyone ? (help!!!)

I stuck this pic on TalkBass but I might as well stick it here as well Thanks Nathan for the drill files and the art files you have made for anyone to use.

You should use the 500mA outputs, 250mA is not enough.