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try a sanding block and some sandpaper. start with around 120 grit finish with 220 grit. clean the dust off with a paper towel and spray cleaner.

My "ZombiVibe" ElectroVibe barely fits in a 1590XX because the incandescent bulb

I'm definitely not playing loud just using it as a practice amp in a small room. I couldn't even go 1/4 on the gains without rattling the rafters as it was wired (in stereo) and really not trying to buy new speakers for this. I'd rather spend the money on making more pedals lol. It says "One 4...

I have a Mosvalve 500 Amp for I use for Bass Guitar. It was hooked up to 2x12in speakers. Each 8 ohms. I think I didn't have it wired correctly. I'm moving all my equipment into another room and want to hook it up right this time. I want to make a back panel for the speaker box and was thinking...

How would you wire it? In>Buffer>Loop1>Loop2>Buffer>Out Or In>Buffer>Loop1>Buffer>Loop2>Out Using this dual buffer I had sitting around https://store.generalguitargadgets.com/collections/pcbs/products/dual-ic-buffer-rts-pcb using the 2 inputs, 2 outputs (separate buffered lines) config...

Anyone know where I can find a bar to protect the knobs from being hit? Like on the line 6 m5. Something that will fit on a 125b enclosure. I searched for something but could only find a drawer handle that might work.

After making a Cream Pie and going to Valhalla. (Both builds went very smooth btw) I tried to resurrect my Sad Zombie wah. After burning up the solder points to the ne555🔥, ruining my reed switch,😞and I'm pretty sure I destroyed the relay.:poop: It clicks on then immediately off when I give it...

Can I just throw a resistor in there to bring the voltage down?

I tried hooking up to lug 6 and 2 of where the ne555 used to be for vref. Didn't work. I'm just leaving it the way it is. If it ain't broke don't fix it. If it does break I'll just have to figure something else out.

there is no need to reverse the in out wires. I think your way would be for a normally open switch I'm a using normally closed switch. I would like to throw that ne555 back in there and make it delay the bypass... but that's for another time... It's working wired like this: except I can't get...

The ATtiny is a microchip? it's not part of this circuit. I was trying for a more simple solution. I'm not against coding. I've done some coding hacks in Linux. but I'd like to get what I have working After staring at the schematic for the Basic Relay Bypass (Non-Latching) and the ne555 wiki...

I'm thinking I might be able to make it work the way I want If I remove and jump some components? Is it the 555 or the transistors? what does the latching? I can mess with it when I got time. I am really a noob at all this still. Learning as I go really

no, I'm using a NC reed switch. please dumb this down for me. I get the routing the power through the switch but how would I route the bypass/effects?

It would have been nice if someone told me this on my original question.

I got my Relay Bypass all soldered up. It doesn't seem to be working correctly. It seems to be acting as latching not non-latching. This is the relay I used. It says non-latching. But when I hooked it up to a regular momentary button. It should turn on when I push and hold the button and turn...

Reed Switch testing

I should be getting my components for the Relay Bypass soon. I want to confirm my wiring is OK. I'm jumping r100 and the led and sending the power to the sw and gnd lugs then to the relay bypass. This seems cleaner than tapping the bottom of the board for power. I just want to be sure it won't...

With bypass:

I didn't account for a bypass lol prob not the best idea

maybe you can use 2 latching relay bypass boards like this: they would have to bet setup with one on and one off and would swap when a switch is activated. They should be non latching two pole switches ***MIGHT WORK*** not sure. There may be a smarter way. You might be able to do it with a...