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@Paradox916 : You'll need to match R1 and R2 to at least 1% tolerance to keep your balancing, but you can use a pot for R3 (wired as a variable resistor) if you want varable attenuation. If you're going to plug the attenuator into a mic pre, R3 might degrade your noise performance if it's higher...

Just resistors. Something along these lines:

Beginning of the school year party. Mandatory pic of my boss's Grammys. It won't be easy to leave this job...

Today on my walk. First time here and it's only 10 minutes from home..

I suspended all JTEX shipping to the US. Many thanks to all previous US customers but it's just too much drama. I might just offer free shipping to all the rest of the world instead.

I was going to suggest something along these lines.

Nope. I even ordered just the exact quantity I needed for a project (25 of each part) and I got 25 assembled boards out of it. They didn't drop any on the floor 🎯 Appartently you can even ship parts to them if you can't find them through any of the distributors they work with. I haven't tried...

I did. It's totally self-serve. https://jlcpcb.com/help/article/how-to-use-jlcpcb-global-sourcing-parts-service

You can play around with a hard clipper and soften it to your heart's content by simply adding a small resistor in series with the diodes on their way to ground. Just tweak and listen until it sounds right to you.

What I would probably do: - cut off the part's legs at the very top using an Xacto or utility knife (careful not to put too much pressure and end up cutting into the board) - pluck what's left of the pins, one by one, with tweezers and an iron. The idea is to do no harm to the PCB. - clean up...

...and the follow-up:

Brake pedal and gas pedal. Optionally a clutch.

Stickman, at least you, unlike most of us, know what will happen when you die :

Saw this on the way to work today. I mean, OK, they're French, but still?

I'm already upset I didn't win.

I should have mentioned that I build mostly just populated PCBs, not pedals, so it's easier for me to offer some simple customization, such as, for instance, no pin headers for those who prefer to solder their own wiring, or a different input Z that involves just swapping a resistor. Pedals are...

Not sure about Charlie Watts, but I measured 150 clean Canadian Watts per channel into 4 ohms with a 40V PSU, if it helps 😉

Well, it's 300 best-case watts. You could power it at much lower than max voltage and use a less bulky power supply that might even fit in the box along with the amp.

This one works great for me: https://a.aliexpress.com/_mrHCsM7 (I got the non-Bluetooth version).

Amp. 2x300W class D.