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First of all, keep your mind out of the gutter! 😅 A muff quest is serious business! Seriously, though, i changed c10 and 11 to 22n. Switched just 10 at first but felt like the sound was missing something. You are right, the hump has switched. Now, even at 1 o clock I feel like there is sone...

And yes, very tired of tearing up the PCB! I need to learn breadboarding just for this kind of thing.

Also, @Chuck D. Bones what do you mean about the wasted range of the mids control? How will it change if C10 is larger?

Thanks! Should I make C10 and C11 both 22nf?

The first stage can add some clipping, but is more about how much bass it lets through. I have it on a switch on my other muff. I'm thinking of just taking it out of the Ungula. I love how tight the Ungula is, but it could loosen up a little. The second stage is more about the clipping, but also...

Would love to know if anyone else comes up with any other good mods for bass.

I do like the sound of no diodes too, for more of an open OD sound. But for fuzz, I prefer LEDs.

I like a phase 45 with bass. Kind of subtle but works really well as an enhancer.

And, of course, while I didn't have time to build an Ungula, by the time I did these mods and fixed the broken traces and pads from component removal... it took just as long as making one from scratch!

I've been on a bit of a muff quest the past few months with bass and have finally figured a few things out. I recently socketed a lot of components and built an "ultimate" muff that works pretty well as a dirty boost, slight overdrive, and fuzz. I call it the Gold Muff. I realized, thought, that...

Just messaged with Juan on madbean and he said the following. Seems okay to share and possibly useful to anyone who needs the info: Just had a quick look at what you're doing (adding a variable mids pot to a muff stack). The C500 pot is very important, if you deviate from that the frequency of...

Thank you! Has anyone used the ultrastoner mids? What did you think? Any comparison to the hoof mids? In my build, I have found that I really like just working with the C13 cap (on the mudbunny layout) for either flat or boosted mids. Not sure if I need to do a whole mids pot, but I've been...

Dan, do you know the Ultrastoner mids tonestack values? I have heard that it is a very good mids knob and would like to replicate it in a build.

I think that maybe the ideal test, if the cap values add up, is to hook up my looper to the open pedal and send a bass loop through. Then just try a few different caps and press the leads up against the sides of the SMD cap to see how that changes things.

There are literally 100 plumes for sale right now on Reverb... so I'm probably not going to sell it. So likely option 2. Adding a cap in parallel is a good idea!

Gonna have to try this tonight... I have an actual Plumes pedal that I'm going to mod-- and build a greengage if I can't. The eqd photos all had through hole components, but my pedal is SMD. I can see that you can carefully make regular caps work here... will just have to figure that out...

Here's what he just posted to talkbass: I would up C1 anywhere from 220nf-1uf and C4 up to 470-680nf, but i'd experiment to taste

To be fair to John, sometimes I think he does the mod that sounds good and then doesn't really write down what he does and that's why he can't share it. For his pork loin mod, he documented that one pretty well.

I need to go higher than 100n, so seems like 470-220 is a good range to try.

Looks like the Dwarven Hammer uses a 220n in a similar spot on the schematic. I'm not great at reading schematics, but that seems close to where I'd want to be looking. 330n on the stockade.