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@Alan W Good tip re: using a non-rubbery sanding block component. I’ll see if I can rig something up. No spray paint involved. Maybe you’re thinking of laser etching? I’m doing acid etching. If you look at the last post in this thread...

I etch my enclosures. And I’ve discovered, through trial and error, that getting the enclosure sanded to a mirror-like smoothness makes for a much more consistent (iron-on) toner transfer. I’ve got one of these: I start with a fairly coarse grit to make sure the surface is leveled out, and...

Same technique should work, just with the added step of pulling off the top mask at the end. You may want to give it a day to cure before you try to pull the mask off, lest you pull the graphic back off with it. We used a special low-tack masking tape when we did this, but I’m not sure what...

The trick is to get a spray bottle with mostly water and just a drop or two of dish soap and lightly mist the surface right before you apply your decal. It allows you to apply the graphic without wrinkles or bubbles and you can slide it around a little (or pull it off and re-apply if you need...

In this scenario, the VCA is the “Expression Pedal Pot”, and the LFO CV is “your foot”. The VCA isn’t generating or adding any voltage to the ‘Expression Loop’, it’s just opening and closing (in response to the LFO) to allow more or less “FX V” to return to your Effect Pedal.

I may be wrong, but I think pretty much all Expression “Inputs” (they’re actually loops) work essentially the same way: they send a voltage (i.e. a CV) out (on either Tip or Ring of a TRS cable), it gets attenuated by the pot in the expression pedal, comes back (on Ring, or Tip, no...

If I was trying to do this, I’d look at synth-style VCA circuits. Basically you feed the Send part of whatever pedal’s Expression I/O to the Input of your VCA, the Output of the VCA goes to the Return of the Expression I/O, and you use a Control Voltage (LFO or whatever) to modulate the VCA...

Never heard of the Fnirsi brand before, but it seems to have okay reviews 🤷‍♀️ Only scopes I’ve used before (in a pretty limited, un-expert capacity) were an old CRT Tektronix that I got used to off of EBay. It worked fine, then I had it in storage for a while, and it smoked and died the first...

Won’t work for the OP either, but the VT-1 effect is included in the Boss VF-1 (along with lots of other cool stuff) if anyone needs a cool little half-rack multi-fx unit from the late ‘90s. And it’s red! ;) Also, Boss has always been a division of Roland, just FYI:)

If I was trying to do something like what I think you’re describing, I’d probably just get a Bluetooth mic and mini speaker, and have my iPhone in my pocket running AUM with whatever FX chain got me the sound I wanted.

Maybe the vocoder module from this recent thread? https://forum.pedalpcb.com/threads/deeptronic-freeze-vocoder-fog-group-buy-closing-soon.24252/page-3#post-309415

So this would be similar to the JMK Paralyzer? https://jmkpcbs.com/product/paralyzer/ That one is definitely my favorite “utility” thing I’ve ever built.

I’ve off-board wired the majority of pedals that I’ve built. A.) because it was the norm on older stuff and B.) because I frequently don’t like other people’s default layouts;) I’ve never had any problems with it. And as far as I know, the main reason for PCB-mounted pots is so you don’t have...

Ahh, the dreaded “playing technique”; no-one makes a PCB for that! ;)

Cool topic! Here’s one I’ve always wondered about: That weird almost “steel drum” like sound that’s throughout the song. Very similar sound at the beginning of Kerosene from the same album as well. I assume it’s guitar-based. Big Black used a drum machine but no synth stuff as far as I know...

Looks good! I just make (rough) calculations based on this chart, when pots aren’t behaving as expected/desired. Usually gets me close enough:

Amperage ratings tell you how many Amps something can safely produce or conduct. They’re there to protect wire and other components from overheating/burning up. A load (pedal, anything else that uses power) won’t ever pull more than it’s stated amperage or wattage. If a power supply is rated...

That numbering on the BYOC PCB corresponds to what lug of the 3PDT it attaches to: 1 • 4 • 7 2 • 5 • 8 3 • 6 • 9 From L to R on your PCB, I think it should be… 2: Ground/- 1: LED Cathode/- 5: Board In 4: Jack In 7: Board Out 8: Jack Out

What does the pot control? If the low-Ω side of it is the more important tweaking zone, the 37k (or the 37k + a 10k fixed resistor in series) might work fine 🤷‍♀️