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One thing about tantalum caps that I really hate is that if they fail, they get as hot as a thermite and can easily burn a hole right through an FR4 PCB. I am told that these days they don't fail nearly as frequently as they used to, but my trust was lost long ago.

My uncle is perfectly equally lazy.

I reiterate that C1 is a placeholder. By that, I mean it's present on the schematic to generate a footprint on the PCB, which I may or may not want to populate, but it's useful to have. Primary function is not as an RF filter. That's just a side effect that's probably not really necessary with...

Exactly. Where does your -V come from? There's nothing in this circuit that's more negative than the ground.

"Hash" tag RPCO caps. Rolling Paper in CBD Oil. Made Rolled in Canada by Maricon. Distributed in Europe by Mouser Netherlands.

I haven't had a need to use any tantalum caps in at least 5 years. Where would they be so explicitly needed that you can't use a large MLCC instead? Maaaaybe under a computer CPU, but... in a pedal?

Next time you roll a joint, think about it. You could have made a capacitor! Just add CBD oil and a strip of tin foil. And when it blows up and releases the magic smoke, good times!

Good point. I've done it that way too, in a circuit where there was no microcontroller or even any IC at all. Just relay logic (good thing they taught us relay logic back in high school, or it wouldn't have occurred to me). But in a particular pedal I had to use an attiny anyway, so I might as...

Nah, just lazy. I truly do not know anyone lazier than me. OK, maybe my teenage son.

EA2-5TNU from Kemet/Yageo. 28mA coil current. ATTiny absolute max current per port is 40mA, and I feel 28mA is far enough to be safe. It's also just a short pulse to latch the relay, not a continuous load, so there's no overheating. I haven't had any field failures. Come to think of it, the...

Try getting rid of R7 and C4 and see if it still clips.

FWIW, I once rehoused a Bass Rockman in a pedal. Pretty tight fit, and I couldn't get the little DC-DC converters far away from the analog circuitry to completely avoid switching noises interfering with the audio (and the chorus clock!!). I just gave up and used a linear +/-6V wall wart...

Suggestion: this is a great dbx/THAT one-knob compressor using currently available parts. Basically a modern dbx163. Maybe you'd want to make a PCB for it? https://www.thatcorp.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/10/Pedal-05-4316-Battery-Powered-One-Knob-Squeezer.pdf (this design note is a real gem)...

I'm embarrassed by my own nerd humor 🤓

Well, you made me look them up, and 0.1uF C0G is really a thing now even in 0704. I even found a whopping 0.47uF C0G in 1206 for under $1 in qty 10. Good times!

I think of SMD by default. Biggest SMD C0G I've seen in 0805 is 47nF, but this was a few years ago. I guess they're making them bigger now? Good to know.

Ceramic caps bigger than about 22nF are almost certainly not C0G. If they were surface mount, it would be easy to tell. SMD C0G are a greyish white, while X*R are more yellowish. I suppose you could put a cap in a meter and heat it with a heat gun or iron or something. Or freeze it with a...

R6 is the "clean blend" for more mojo😁

Oh, those are deluxe resistors. I like using them if somebody else bought them.

I don't know where you guys find resistors for as much as $0.15 apiece in qty 100. I wouldn't pay more than $0.03 apiece unless they're like 0.1% tolerance and I actually need that. https://www.lcsc.com/product-detail/Through-Hole-Resistors_YAGEO-MF0207FTE52-100K_C513592.html...