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The first one I am going to screw with.....I mean show is the Ambassador tone stack, that is one weird adaptation of the Marshal or Bassman tone stack. There is no Bass pot, the knob labeled Bass is in the position the Mid pot is normally in and the original Bass pot is just gone, shorted out...

This Thread is for any and all mods that people want to share, I love modding circuits if I can make it more useful to me. I especially like to add deep switches and Bass switches along with Bright switches so I can use the pedals for Bass and guitar. I like to use the Tube calculators on the...

What is the actual voltage that is going into the pedal ? Cheap power supplies can often provide a lot higher voltage then they claim, the ALD7555 timer IC you used should only be used between 2V to 10V so you should never run the pedal at more then 10V. I would replace the ALD7555 with a 555...

I think the closest to flat you will get is with the Bass on 5 and Treble on 6. The tone stack is very close to a Fender E series tone stack, the closest I can set the TSC for for this tone stack is Bass 5 and Treble 6. Here is the TSC set up as close as you can get it, play with the sliders and...

Here is another modification that I would like to see on the Nobelium PCB, it is moving the XLR trim pot a little bit. While I move the trim pot a little bit I would also add a 9mm pot right on top of the mounting post hole and wire that in parallel to the trim pot, now we would have a trim pot...

I was thinking more of how the "Steddi Go" was wired so both outputs shared the volume pot, that way you would not need the trimpot. Just tap of the volume pot to go to the XLR PCB, C9 on the right terminal goes to the viper of the pot and the square pad of the pot is a ground.

If you are not going to use the 1/4" output at all then you don't need C9 or any of the components to the right of C9 on the schematic, if that's the way you are going then replace the volume pot with an A500k pot and then pick the signal from the viper of the pot up on the right hole of C9 and...

I like to mod my PCB builds and sometime I think a mod should be permanent, If anyone else would like to see a change to any PCB post it here. I want to start with one of the best C2CE PCB's the Nobelium. I made a small change to my first Nobelium that gave me 2 diferent HPF frequencies, I cut...

If you mean for the LED to work then a jumper from the left side of R12 to the 2 pins on the right side of the tube PCB header. If you look at the drawing on post 14 you can see where the trace should be but 2 different PCB's have had a broken trace. Post 15 shows a photo with the link in place...

I think that Mr Sushi "Nathan" Box should borrow this post and the audio files for the C2CE website on the Unagi E-4305 page, and also on the Steddi Go and Nobelium pages as well to help people work out what transformer they want to use. Well done young fellah. ( Unless the 58 is your birth year...

If you remove the nuts and washers from the switch on the XLR PCB it will be easier to align the switch with the slot on the enclosure.

Well I placed one of each on my tube order for the last batch of PCB's I got, man 22 tubes get expensive but it should keep me occupied most of the winter I hope. And now I need more enclosures as well from Tayda but they can wait a while, I should have the box for the Steddi Go and the Wrecking...

Nathan, in the BOM for the Steddi Go it mentions a 12AT7 or a 12AX7 as the tube, what would be the difference between the two tubes apart from a gain of 60 or 100 ? Is it a coin toss which one I should use or split the difference and go for a 5751 tube with a gain of 70 ? Cheers Mick

I think you are miss understanding me a bit, I am not disputing what you are saying, I am adding that from an engineering point of view you still need to take into account the few hidden traces and hidden flood fills that are on the 2 internal invisible layers. I am happy you got yours to work...

The XLR uses only tube 1 that's on the left when you look from the back, the one that is above the Nobelium writing. The 1/4" output uses both tubes. Swap your tubes around and see if it is any better on the XLR output, or try another 12AU7 tube in Tube 1 position. The 12AU7 has a gain of about...

There are hidden traces on the internal layers you can't see, and you can not see the amount of shielding the internal layers provide between the front and the back. On this design you can see most of the traces but not all that are there, I think there is a full layer of copper internally that...

There is a great dude on TB who was talking about a pedal amp and I sent him a link for a small 30W pedal from Asia somewhere, 2 weeks later he sent me a photo of the insides of the little power amp pedal and that is where the Class D AP3001 module idea came from. I believe he was going to mount...

There are usually 4 copper layers in most of the C2CE PCB's that I have noticed, the 2 internal layers are often flood filled so they act as shields as well as conducting electricity. It would be impossible to really make a comment on the signals without seeing the how all the layers are made...

What is your cheap combo amp you want to strip ? Hopefully you will find a circuit where you can use all the pot holes in the front panel, I have seen a few cheap amps retrofitted with a great tube amp inside and you could never tell from the front.

You are right that the Bass setting would be C1 + C3 only, I drew it up in the middle of the night and I did it fast so I made a mistake. I like mistakes because you learn the best when you do it wrong, as long as no one gets hurt. I picked up the 3 way switching from "PassinWind" on the TB...