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Both of these examples are referring to Johnson noise. This is totally separate from the noise that reportedly is decreased by using physically larger/higher dissipation resistors - contact noise. The only supportive evidence of the contact noise claim is Aiken, and even he says that this only...

I'm dubious of any blanket statements made that X or Y is definite, especially when person making the original claims has made similar ones before that he's said aren't measurable, but he can definitely hear them - I've read enough audiofoolery to know what going down this path leads to. Re...

Care to provide proof of such a claim?

Is your kill switch grounding the signal or just disconnecting the hot?

Are you saying...there is?

None of those are inherent to a higher voltage rating; they are due to other characteristics totally separate to that. The question was is there any sound difference with higher voltage rated caps, and the answer is unequivocally no.

No, they absolutely cannot lmao

No time off work when you're self employed :LOL:

Saw them pop up on one of the FB groups and interested in grabbing a few - I'm about to have surgery and might be armless for over 2 months which might put a bit of a dampener on my building though. I'll keep an eye out if you've still got them when I've got an idea about recovery timeframes

Seems to be a situation of they look cool and are available in large quantities for pretty cheap.

Honestly, it's not super important unless you're drawing a high proportion of the total device output - the difference in a few of the models I just compared was 1% voltage variation from 0-100% current draw for regulated vs 10% for unregulated (and the same from min to max input voltage). You...

If you've got voltage to spare (which you do), you can't beat a single Schottky diode for simplicity and minimal drop; 1N5819s cost nothing, drop minimal voltage and will withstand 40v continuous reversed all day. IMO, reliant on a RC filter these days on the power rail isn't that useful for...

Tangential: I had a client for about a year who realized one day was the wife of Mick Gordon. We got to talking, and she said he has multiple offices full of pedals/amps/rack gear that people have sent him. I ended up making him a 8-bit guitar synth, and he loved it!

For posterity: it's this with two parallel output jacks instead of a speaker. Yes, that bizarre power layout is what it is from factory. removed the resistor to ground from the jack replaced the Zener with a 100nf MLCC increased the main filter cap to 220uf removed the additional 100uf...

...it's literally just a Ruby clone with some very, very bad design decisions. Rather unsurprisingly the owner said he's had it repaired twice over the last few years and it keeps on breaking. Noticed both the output jacks are very weird - they don't work with any of my mono or stereo 1/4"...

Op-amps get biased to roughly half the supply rail - so you want the voltage divider to have two equal(ish) resistors for R1/R2 so the middle of these will be ~4.5v.

I use them exclusively for the workshops I run for beginners. A buck and a minute to solder is massively cheaper/easier than trying to get new solderers to cut/strip/tin/solder multiple cables :ROFLMAO:

https://au.mouser.com/ProductDetail/TE-Connectivity/FSN-22A-6?qs=FFbrrKMnJvzKmHD1yRFm1w%3D%3D Flat stranded, Nomex or Teflon ribbon, specifically designed for movement. Been using them for years with zero issues

The easiest way is (IMO) make things modular as well as bullet proof - separate the sections of the pedal that will see the most abose (jacks, switch, pot) into daughterboards and connect them to everything else with JST-XH's or ribbon cables. If something breaks, swap them over in under a...

If you have 3D models attached to your PCB, export it as a .step file and import to your CAD program of choice. From there it's trivial to create a drill plan. If you don't have 3D models attached, then your best bet is exporting it as a vector image into your vector software of choice and...