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You mean a mute switch or a power switch? My preamp boards all have some form of mute with an LED to indicate if on or off. A power switch can be added in series with the incoming power from the jack and an LED, with resistor, on the other side of the switch.

I've not had a single one die and have made about 20 of them. But, most of the boards from china are fake. The will laser mark the chips as 3118 or 3116 but the chips are fake. Those are all garbage. The real chips have never failed on me.

Just to follow up... The 555 is running at 53khz. There is considerable noise on the 250V supply and the output, but it is all at very high frequency. Still trying to figure out if the lower frequency noise of the previous pic is real. It sure looks real on scope. I don't hear any whine with the...

This is what I wanted to know (40khz expected). I'll check the components. For the others, I'm using a bench supply for 12V, which has no noise. The tube heaters are run directly from that supply, so 9V seems low since the heaters want 12.6V.

A question for folks who've built this. I was sent one to try out already built and wanted to test it prior to plugging it in. I was surprised to see that the oscillator runs at about 4khz (in the audio range) and then even more surprised to see the power supply noise is on the output signal...

All of these caps are dragging down top end, so play with these.

Try things out before committing it to the combo build. You can install the M2 board first, since it's the center piece. Then try various over-drive pedals in front of it to see what you like. Those will pre-boost either the fender clean or the M2 drive channel. Both are over-drive friendly...

This is just a quick reply. Let me know if this solves your issues or need more. I assume you are using one of my boards since I see "To Drive" labeled... There is only one input on the M2 board and that board has the fender clean and Marshall drive. Both channels are fed the input at the same...

Or... If you want to add a resistor instead of swapping the 78L09... (EDIT: 100uf might be too big. Depends on the switching voltages of the relay. If you can feel the delay, then reduce to 10uf.)

Oh hey... Visio did an auto save... Here's the corrected full circuit... Fixed it for normally closed reed switch, the LED driver and added a cap to ensure no relay bounce when switching. (EDIT: 100uf might be too big. Depends on the switching voltages of the relay. If you can feel the delay...

That's right. But I lost my original drawing in a PC crash and didn't feel like redoing it from scratch. But, yes, add back in R4 and Q1 for the LED.

And this is the LED wiring needed. (This is my original picture showing the reversed polarity, so ignore that part.)

The original circuit is is driving the relay from about 7.5V out of pin 3 of the 555, not Vref, but the specified relay is rated at 4.5V. You can add a 130 ohm resistor in series with the relay to drive it from 9V. lift one side of D2 and add 130ohm in series with it. There is no Vref supply...

If you want to make the 555 based board work, do this. Leave out the red-X components. Wire the reed switch as the green lines between pins 3 and 8 of the 555 IC socket. BUT, polarity is backwards, so, do not connect anything to "IN" on the module; Connect the input jack to the input of the wah...

This will all work but need an alternative programming of the ATtiny to use a latching switch instead of momentary switch. My code has this as an option if you want to try your hand at programming. I strongly suggest doing so because the ability to program opens up infinite possibilities... My...

10k for the LED is a guess. LEDs vary so much that you should always test yours for desired brightness and hand-choose a resistance. (EDIT: I'm old and still have LEDs from the '80s. Those need 20mA. New high brightness LEDs seem to turn on if I wave them around a power supply and are a...

LEDs will turn off. Input signal is connected to both effects and both effects will be active at all times and sending output to the relay board. The relay board will select one of the two outputs.

Here it is with the intelligent relay bypass module. Of course, if ordering something, use the DPDT version. This is only if you already have these in hand. I used a schotkey diode to make sure LED A goes fully off.

Here it is with the DPDT module instead of the intelligent relay bypass module.