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True, but I haven't seen pictures of that one coming by here. Another option would be to split the Ethos up in two pedals: one for the clean channel, one for the drive channel. From what I remember of the FSB thread, there weren't too many differences between the channels, aside from the drive...

Cool, thanks for the update (y) The thread you refer to (and I also had in mind) indeed only looked at the gooped part, but an earlier thread already attempted to trace all but the gooped part (way back in 2013). I've build and used a bunch of preamp pedals over the years, but the Ethos has...

What's the current status on the Ethos Overdrive? I would love to build one, and I'm also curious how much the FSB thread that tried to trace one a few years ago got right. It appears to have a fairly unique (or at least non-standard) clipping circuit.

Really cool pedals, and FSB has most of them traced. Plus, if you use one of the v2 schematics, the PCB could be used for all pedals from the Character series, just by changing a few component values.

Wow, the Tyrian Distortion sold out within a day :eek: When will the next batch arrive?

Please stop adding awesome pedals to your site. Every time I think I´m ready to order, a new board pops up, making me wait a little longer until that one is available as well ;) But seriously, cool to hear a stereo FV-1 board is in the works.

Thanks for the reply. I guess I am part of a small minority, as I primarily play guitar at home, using an amp-sim and headphones. Using stereo effects, particularly reverbs, really adds more life to the sound. I would love to add one of the PedalPCB reverbs to my chain, but I'm afraid it won't...

Just out of curiosity: why are there no (that I have found) stereo FV-1 effects in the DIY world? I have yet to come across one. Does the FV-1 chip not lend itself well for stereo, or would the circuit simply become to complex for most DIY'ers?

I remember reading somewhere that you can get somewhat close by taking a linear potentiometer and putting two resistors from the outer legs to the center leg, but I can't recall the details.

From left to middle it's reverse audio, from middle to right it's audio, making the middle portion of the taper effectively linear. You could replace it with a linear (B) potentiometer, but the usefull ranges on either side will be limited to a small region on the ends.