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You can use any CMYK palette of your choice for other colors. Have you tried "convert to curves" in Affinity for those troublesome test objects? Inkscape has historically been wonky as far as SVG export format compatibility FWIW. Try plain SVG instead of Inkscape SVG; occasionally that has...

Yep, and if you have a high resolution raster graphics for a background he will often even take that as-is. He also provides a pre-production digital proof before printing.

My open source bass preamp design on its own is mostly about squeaky clean, with a more or less Alembic based resonant LPF section, but it's also possible to pull Wal style grit out of it. Where it really shines is in smoothing out and fine tuning grit or fizz from other pedals or from...

Pin 2 is an input, not an output. What are you seeing on pin 1?

I've used the powder coated SBP "pro" enclosures a lot but typically have them drop shipped to Amplifyfun for drilling and printing anyway. The enclosures are still plenty robust, IME. And SBP are pretty quick on shipping as well. For me LMS is fairly often next day delivery though, for stuff I...

As far as digital pedals, I'm another one who generally prefers various delays. The CT3680 beta test pedal I built does that for me in stellar fashion, and I think the next one I build will be even better, as I won't be asking it to do chorus too. I do own an old Lexicon rack unit (MPX-550)...

All PCB shares, schematics, and Mouser BOMs on my Github repository now updated due to Wima 50v film cap discontinuations: https://github.com/Passinwind/PW3B-LPF

It's an easy one to forget, especially if one uses OPA2132 and OPA2134 a lot, as I used to. Both of those are dualies...go figure!

There's one other significant difference that might bear mentioning: 5534 is a single opamp and 5532 is a dual.

Shouldn’t take much over ten years to get through the links I posted, unless you need to eat and sleep or do other pesky life stuff.

Start here: http://www.tubebooks.org/technical_books_online.htm The RCA compilations and the Radiotron ones are a classic starting place. The Crowhurst and Seely texts get a lot of recommendations as well.

Thanks, my needs are 22uF/25V and 47uF/ 25V. Definitely not interested in mutilating SMD parts. I still have a decent stash of discontinued Rubycons for when I need 5mm height, but 7mm works fine for nearly everything I build these days.

Links please?

I'd highly suggest that you learn LTspice or something similar, it makes looking at the overall picture of how various sections interact so much easier.

That would be extraordinarily high as a starting point. By maybe an octave or two, at least. ;)

Find a version of Spice you can run on whatever screen appliance you’re bringing, or at least some tutorials on circuit simulation.

Still playing around with the v2 though-hole based pedal, here's the most recent try: https://forum.pedalpcb.com/threads/inventory-builds-player-hater%E2%80%99s-ball-2025.26502/page-30#post-348609 And then the bass in post #33 got a new body and a three way Q switch:

FWIW, I’ve come to prefer 0.5 mm solder for both through hole and the relatively larger format SMD parts I mostly use these days. 0.015” = 0.38 mm. and is readily available, and I’d probably prefer that for 0805 and SOIC parts, but I get Bro Deals on .020/.5mm solder so that’s what I use most...

I own around a dozen Hakko tips and change between my two primaries at least a few times a day if I’m working on any sort of extended project. I do have another tip reserved just for tinning wires, but one of my primaries works just as well for 22 or 24 AWG silicone wire, so I reserve the...

The fumes are very toxic and not compatible at all with my particular health issues. And in my case I just make the PCB holes the right size for the wire I'm using, which took a little tweaking but hasn't been an issue for years.