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Find a version of Spice you can run on whatever screen appliance you’re bringing, or at least some tutorials on circuit simulation.

Still playing around with the v2 though-hole based pedal, here's the most recent try: https://forum.pedalpcb.com/threads/inventory-builds-player-hater%E2%80%99s-ball-2025.26502/page-30#post-348609 And then the bass in post #33 got a new body and a three way Q switch:

FWIW, I’ve come to prefer 0.5 mm solder for both through hole and the relatively larger format SMD parts I mostly use these days. 0.015” = 0.38 mm. and is readily available, and I’d probably prefer that for 0805 and SOIC parts, but I get Bro Deals on .020/.5mm solder so that’s what I use most...

I own around a dozen Hakko tips and change between my two primaries at least a few times a day if I’m working on any sort of extended project. I do have another tip reserved just for tinning wires, but one of my primaries works just as well for 22 or 24 AWG silicone wire, so I reserve the...

The fumes are very toxic and not compatible at all with my particular health issues. And in my case I just make the PCB holes the right size for the wire I'm using, which took a little tweaking but hasn't been an issue for years.

Nothing will ever get me to voluntarily use PVC insulation again, but vive la difference! ;)

No idea, but manual tinning had been standard for me for over sixty years, so I never even think about it by now. More of a hassle with thinner gauges, but my default is 22 gauge for my own designs, which are 98% of what I build.

This is the best hand stripper I’ve found for teflon: https://www.markertek.com/product/pal-1113/paladin-1113-stripax-pro-6 You can find used ones easily enough, but the carbide cutter replacement sets are still $$$. And they do wear out fairly quckly, I think my 22ga. cartrridge was only good...

I just took took a look in my ancient folders and found the schematic that Ashly owner Bill Thompson gave me during a factory tour in something like 1979. But then I also found one online here: https://audioschematics.dk/downloadus/schematics/outboard/

Try emailing Ashly tech support, historically they have been great about freely sharing schematics.

I did it that way for my PEQ/HPF pedal which uses a Traco DC-DC brick as well:

Very nice job do far! I almost never breadboard either, LTspice typically gets me plenty close enough within two build cycles for the type of stuff I mostly build. I’ve posted a few original acoustic oriented preamp builds here, and have an open source one on GitHub as well.

Still for sale or trade, I guess: https://forum.pedalpcb.com/threads/pace-st115-desoldering-station.20835/ Works great for some through hole things, but I rarely use many TH parts beyond film caps and board mounted pots these days. A more modern PACE station would be my call if I needed a day...

Par Metal: Modu/HiFi 2000: If you want to go all in on front panel graphcs I highly recommend Front Panel Express in Seattle. They do UV printing now as well, but I love their old school engraving/infilling process.

http://www.par-metal.com/ https://hifi2000.shop/site/en I’ve used both for a variety of DIY builds, with the latter you need to read between the lines very carefully but the workmamship is quite good.

Yeah, that’s the current open source one. ;)

I actually have a different EQ pedal in design that combines a one band PEQ and a variable HPF, using a 9V—> +/- 15V Traco power converter chip. It has plenty of headroom to drive any power amp directly and my primary projected use case is FRFR powered speakers. I hope to add it to my open...

285 rosin is still pretty active, and a new spool like that would be $$$.

Yeah, I have a spool. Less shiny joints than 63/37 w/ type 44 rosin, but also a slightly lower melting temp. Mine came in an expired lot from a friend who works as a tech in aerospace applications. You can make it look shinier by using desoldering braid on your joints, which I tend to do for SMD...

Some of my OSH orders are under $1 shipped, I usually try to at least double or triple up in that case to hopefully make it a little more worthwhile for them.