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I use Vectornator on the iPad. Import the drill template pdf, import pics on separate layers (until I decide which I like best), add text on separate layers and print at 100%. I typically print to waterslide and cut around the graphics/text, but I’ve done a few where a big picture covers the top...

Another way to confirm it is to measure a 100pF cap (to see how far off 100 it is) and measure that in parallel with the “two 30pF series contraption from post #5” …much like you did with the two 30’s to get 60pF. Then just subtract 100 (or whatever the 100pF cap measured). I use that dual-cap...

Those do look pretty close. On a Peak DCA55, I measured a bunch of the 1n4148. At 4.274If, it’s showing the Vf is coming in around .670V, give or take a few thousandths, so that matches up pretty close to the plot. Eyeballing the plot, the MA150‘s Vf looks to be a hair under .700V at around...

Once I get everything in (circuit, a few parts) I’ll bump this up to the top of the queue.

I saw those yesterday, but i thought they only had one based on the description on the main diode page: “1 Piece of original MA150 Panasonic silicon epitaxial planar diode.” Since they actually have a small supply, I might grab a few so I can compare the differences/similarities between these...

I have a Tayda order just about ready to go, so I added in a handful of BAV21 diodes to try out - thanks for the suggestion!

Excellent! Thanks for the info, Benny.

Since I don’t have any MA150 diodes, I was reading up on substitutes. 1n4148 and 1n914’s seem to be ok, but how about 1n4448? …or to reword it, which of those 3 would be the better sub for the MA150, or are there any others I could use as a sub? I can always socket them and try a few out, but...

Check out the “related products” under this stencil. Maybe those would work? https://www.proto-advantage.com/store/product_info.php?products_id=2220011 I emailed them to see which stencil would be the likely one for SMDing an FV-1 and he said: “The PA0011-S is the correct adapter match. Please...

SBP has them: https://stompboxparts.com/pots/16mm-dual-gang-potentiometer-smooth-shaft-short-pcb-leg/

Excellent! Thanks for the info. Minor crisis avoided!

I have a question on the toggle for the Electrovibe (non-mini). The parts list shows one of the mini toggle options as Tayda sku A-4736 DPDT (on-on), so I got that one. On the PCB, there are 3 pads for the toggle. Can I use one side of the DPDT and leave the other 3 lugs empty (or jump the...

Excellent, thanks! I just started building pedals this year (with zero electronics experience and a rank beginner at soldering) and while many of the things I‘m not sure of are answered by a bit of research, I couldn’t find much info on the trimmer differences. I did figure out the hard way...

I’m sourcing parts for an ElectroVibe (non-mini) and I have a question on the trimmers. From the build reports, it looks like most folks use the Cermet 3362P as far as I can tell. Are there any differences between these two styles other than the Cermets being enclosed/sealed? I notice the...

This is all great info! I learn a little bit more with each build - of what to do and more importantly, what NOT to do!

Excellent! Thanks, guys. There’s a lot to learn, but I’m getting there! Sometimes I think I’m a bit too cautious, but as you say, that isn’t a bad thing!

Hi folks! I’m pretty new at building pedals; I just started doing them this year. I try to absorb as much info as I can and keep plenty of notes along the way, but I have a couple of noob questions: I like using the 3PDT breakout boards, but I see a lot of folks skip those and wire the stomp...