Glory hole build need more gain

Wesleychef

New member
I just finished my first non kit pedal. I built about 5 kits so far this is my fist PCb build where I ordered all the parts . Any way it works great. But I am trying to get about 25% more gain out of the pedal . I read I can increase the drive pot but I have to order a new one etc. what resistor can I change to get more gain .? can . I add an led in series with the clipping diodes to get more gain ? what would this do ? Thanks
 
Going to 1.2M increases gain substantially. You might want to try going in 2x steps until you get enough gain. You may also want to reduce C10 if you like using the HI-CUT switch. You can reduce R17 if you want to get Q1 to saturate.
 
Going to 1.2M increases gain substantially. You might want to try going in 2x steps until you get enough gain. You may also want to reduce C10 if you like using the HI-CUT switch. You can reduce R17 if you want to get Q1 to saturate.
Why would be the difference in sound doing these diffrent mods .. What I am looking for is to retain the sound of the pedal but incress the gain like 25-40% so at super low bedroom volumes I get a decent sound
 
Increasing R7 lets you turn the DRIVE up to 11. If you use the HI-CUT switch in the "cut" position, then increasing R7 will also reduce the treble content unless you reduce C10 by the same proportion. If you leave the HI-CUT switch in the "no cut" position, then C10 is out of the circuit and doesn't matter. For what you're trying to accomplish, just leave R17 as-is.

Are you using this pedal to overdrive your amp?
 
Increasing R7 lets you turn the DRIVE up to 11. If you use the HI-CUT switch in the "cut" position, then increasing R7 will also reduce the treble content unless you reduce C10 by the same proportion. If you leave the HI-CUT switch in the "no cut" position, then C10 is out of the circuit and doesn't matter. For what you're trying to accomplish, just leave R17 as-is.

Are you using this pedal to overdrive your amp?
No I don’t think so . I typically use a boaster to get “actuall overdrive” I have a Marshall origin FYI. Trying to have the glory hole volume at unity or a touch above . on this pedal and I guess clip the pedal . So I can get some clipping at lower volumes so wife does not kill
Me from having amp to loud when she is home . Ad I will not use high cut switch
 
I put a switch in got 220 and 1 m .. well funny story the big reason why I need more gain is a cable I just made had a short in it .. and was make my single really quiet .. any way mod works well thanks for the help guys .. not I can get some creamy tones at super low volume
 
I'm really glad I just saw this.
So, I love the idea of adding switches and mods to get more variety, however, sometimes my brain gets in the way. I install heat pumps and so my entire mentality is centered on "if it touches, it's "shorted". So looking at your photo, I'm seeing you have a lead going out into the center tap of an on /on and assume both resistors are soldered on to opposite legs, with their other leads soldered together to the lead wire returning to the circuit?
See, in my head, I want to think "the signal is going through both", but my understanding is that it doesn't matter because you are selecting the path and both can be actively connected... Like a train switching tracks in a rail yard...
Am I correct in my observation?
 
Increasing R7 lets you turn the DRIVE up to 11. If you use the HI-CUT switch in the "cut" position, then increasing R7 will also reduce the treble content unless you reduce C10 by the same proportion. If you leave the HI-CUT switch in the "no cut" position, then C10 is out of the circuit and doesn't matter. For what you're trying to accomplish, just leave R17 as-is.

Are you using this pedal to overdrive your amp?
I gave this a shot and decreased the size of C10 from 470p to 220p. I added a toggle to switch R7 between the stock 220k and 1m.

Great gain increase, however now the pedal behaves as if the High Cut switch doesn't work at all. I didn't really use the high cut before anyway, but I would still like for it to function. Any ideas as to why making this change had such an effect?

I noticed you said "decrease" the value of the capacitor in conjunction with the increase in resistor size, but shouldn't it be the other way around? I'm sorta limited in my electronics knowledge, but I thought that increasing the value of a capacitor increased the low end (let more through) in relation to the corresponding resistor
 
No I don’t think so . I typically use a boaster to get “actuall overdrive” I have a Marshall origin FYI. Trying to have the glory hole volume at unity or a touch above . on this pedal and I guess clip the pedal . So I can get some clipping at lower volumes so wife does not kill
Me from having amp to loud when she is home . Ad I will not use high cut switch
I suspect many fine audio circuits were created because the wife was about to kill them. 🤣
 
I gave this a shot and decreased the size of C10 from 470p to 220p. I added a toggle to switch R7 between the stock 220k and 1m.

Great gain increase, however now the pedal behaves as if the High Cut switch doesn't work at all. I didn't really use the high cut before anyway, but I would still like for it to function. Any ideas as to why making this change had such an effect?

I noticed you said "decrease" the value of the capacitor in conjunction with the increase in resistor size, but shouldn't it be the other way around? I'm sorta limited in my electronics knowledge, but I thought that increasing the value of a capacitor increased the low end (let more through) in relation to the corresponding resistor
But here the cap is acting as a low-pass filter. Chuck is saying that as the larger resistor across pins 6 and 7 increases gain it also lowers high end content. So to balance the loss of high end you can reduce the hi-cut cap to make it cut less high end.

I don't really know why that hi-cut switch is there. Just get the treble pot dialled in right and you don't really need it.
 
But here the cap is acting as a low-pass filter. Chuck is saying that as the larger resistor across pins 6 and 7 increases gain it also lowers high end content. So to balance the loss of high end you can reduce the hi-cut cap to make it cut less high end.

I don't really know why that hi-cut switch is there. Just get the treble pot dialled in right and you don't really need it.
I think my guitar might have actually been to blame on this one. Upon completing the G.H, I had just bought a used squire Tele. It had the cheap factory Squire pickups that ALWAYS seem to sound brittle and harsh... The guitar is great, but not the pickups. I just swapped them with Brad Paisley/ Seymour Duncan LA Brea Pickups and now the high cut works just fine... Probably should have tried the Gloryhole with other guitars before deeming it "faulty"
 
Thanks for the R7 mod, I tried it on my build and it is interesting.

Now I have 6 mods and 5 toggleswitches on my Morning Glory clone... I might need to label them, but all the writings will ruin the artwork.

Bright Cut mod : 3 position toggle with 470pF, no cap, 100pF.

C1 mod : 10n as in the BluesBreaker, or 47n as in the Morning Glory. I'd say it sounds like it adds or removes some low mids. 10n sounds sharper, 47n sounds warmer.

Diode mod, with an on-off-on toggle : light compression, no compression, hard compression. Using two 2N7000 and a 3mm red led on one side, one D9E and three 3mm red leds on the other position.

R7 mod, 220k or 1M.

Hard clipping mod, like the internal switch from Analogman's King of Tone. It gives much more compression to the signal. It feels like there's more "gain", a bit like the R7 mod, but not really the same. R7 gain mod activated + hardclipping + bright cut sounds great.

I added an extra pot instead of the Presence trimmer, very useful too ( PPCB board doesn't have this presence trimmer, I am using Delyk's pcb).

Wondering what will be the next mod...
 
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