KAT Treble Booster Strip Board layout

ac30irons

Active member
Not sure if this is the correct place to post this !

So I have had a go at putting a strip board together for the KAT plush treble booster. I was wondering if someone would be so kind to check it over ?
A couple of things I do know:

1. It could probably be a bit smaller.
2. It could probably be a bit more efficient.

I not too concerned about the size, as long as it fits in 1590b (which this does with bags of room.)

IMG_9663.jpeg

IMG_9667.jpeg
 
Layout is 1:1 with the schematic.

With some minor rearranging, you've got room to add a 1N5817 on the power rail for polarity protection, would need another cut on that trace.
Cheers brother. I did think about that but it was after I had arranged the board. I will sit and have a rejig at least knowing that V1 is ok.
 
PLUSH TREBLE BOOSTER AC30IRONS' LAYOUT modded.png

So, as you can see an easy addition for the polarity protection diode.
Make sure you're not connecting power on the left, connection has to be on the right.

Myself, I'd do some more fettling with the output's 47n, 4n7 & 47k, so they're pointing down and have the output well away from the 9v input point.


Tightening the layout:
You can use the transistor's emitter-leg as the jumper
move the 2k4 on the emitter to the left of the 22k
Emitter's 47µ can also go hard left...
 
Unfortunately my mod added another cut.

Some people don't like standing components or components that aren't at right-angles — I've no problem using either — whatever it takes for vero, as I'm not that good at it.

Nonetheless, I took a quick stab at modding your layout — since you did the bulk of the work already;
rejigging is easier than coming up with something from scratch:

PLUSH TREBLE BOOSTER VERO LAYOUT AC30IRONS modded.png

A couple of things at odd-angles, but no standing resistors and the caps are all without bent legs. 🤷‍♂️
 
Unfortunately my mod added another cut.

Some people don't like standing components or components that aren't at right-angles — I've no problem using either — whatever it takes for vero, as I'm not that good at it.

Nonetheless, I took a quick stab at modding your layout — since you did the bulk of the work already;
rejigging is easier than coming up with something from scratch:

View attachment 96490

A couple of things at odd-angles, but no standing resistors and the caps are all without bent legs. 🤷‍♂️
Nice man, I’m going to spend a bit of time studying yours - I’ve found it really I interesting having a go !
 
Very nice. As some may recall, I am a huge Brian May fan, and on my board I have DIY versions of the Cornish BC149 booster (mid 1970s through 1980s era), Rangemaster (first album), and the Fryer Deluxe (late 1990s/early 2000s era). I breadboarded the KAT Plush schematic and it is extremely close to the classic BC149 sound, without having to hunt down a pesky BC149 in the correct HFE range. Highly recommended if you are after that sound.

Mike
 
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Very nice. As some may recall, I am a huge Brian May fan, and on my board I have DIY versions of the Cornish BC149 booster (mid 1970s through 1980s era), Rangemaster (first album), and the Fryer Deluxe (late 1990s/early 2000s era). I breadboarded the KAT Plush schematic and it is extremely close to the classic BC149 sound, without having to hunt down a pesky BC149 in the correct HFE range. Highly recommended if you are after that sound.

Mike
Hey Mike, like you I am a huge Brian May fan. I have built the Cornish TB83 which I love, the Fryer Deluxe, just about every incarnation of the Rangemaster. Couple of days ago I built an 83 with a AMZ pickup thingy in it, interesting. I’ve not done a BC149 - don’t suppose you have a layout 😏

I’m going to knock this one up tomorrow !
 
Hey Mike, like you I am a huge Brian May fan. I have built the Cornish TB83 which I love, the Fryer Deluxe, just about every incarnation of the Rangemaster. Couple of days ago I built an 83 with a AMZ pickup thingy in it, interesting. I’ve not done a BC149 - don’t suppose you have a layout 😏

I’m going to knock this one up tomorrow !
Not a layout per se, but here's a good schematic. BC149 are hard to come by, but BC109 and BC549 work well and are essentially the modern equivalent in a different form factor. I think I finally settled on a BC109 with an HFE around 450 - but fair warning, I was testing with a multimeter, so that doesn't really account for leakage, which I wasn't testing. I just A/B'd the sound to a Yonderbosk TB that uses a BC149 and is considered the gold standard for Cornish BC149 replicas, and settled on the transistor that sounded the closest (i.e., smooth but without the extra "fur" on it that can come from too much gain in the transistor.)

EDIT to add - as you can see, it's virtually identical to the KAT Plush schematic, hence my comment that the Plush is very, very similar in sound.

Screenshot 2025-06-02 at 9.20.35 AM.png
 
Not a layout per se, but here's a good schematic. BC149 are hard to come by, but BC109 and BC549 work well and are essentially the modern equivalent in a different form factor. I think I finally settled on a BC109 with an HFE around 450 - but fair warning, I was testing with a multimeter, so that doesn't really account for leakage, which I wasn't testing. I just A/B'd the sound to a Yonderbosk TB that uses a BC149 and is considered the gold standard for Cornish BC149 replicas, and settled on the transistor that sounded the closest (i.e., smooth but without the extra "fur" on it that can come from too much gain in the transistor.)

EDIT to add - as you can see, it's virtually identical to the KAT Plush schematic, hence my comment that the Plush is very, very similar in sound.

View attachment 96535
Thanks Mike, I shall have a stab at putting together a layout for it. There is a supplier here in the uk that has NOS BC149s, will grab some.
 
What is the correct range?
I would need to pull the transistor for my build to see exactly what I settled on for my BC109, which is essentially the BC149 in a different form factor. But it was lower than you would expect as the ideal range is in the 400s - if the gain is much higher, you lose the chime when rolling off the guitar volume and also lose dynamics, both of which are a huge part of Brian's sound and style.
 
@mkstewartesq have you tried the KAT volume pot (I’m making a presumption you have a RS) that makes a huge difference as to rolling back the volume for the chime. I used to make them and sell them on eBay, stupid easy to do !
 
@mkstewartesq have you tried the KAT volume pot (I’m making a presumption you have a RS) that makes a huge difference as to rolling back the volume for the chime. I used to make them and sell them on eBay, stupid easy to do !
I do have an RS (two actually - a Dansan RS and a low-serial-number Burns RS that I had converted to be more accurate by RSConversions in New Jersey).

I haven't tried the Superpot - either the "official" one or building my own. For me personally, I just haven't found the need. My "preferred" era for Brian's tone is late 1970/early 1980s and the Superpot really only became part of his rig in the past ten years or so, and I haven't loved his more recent tone - so I've never really been driven to try it myself.

M
 
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