Pendulum - Shifting the LPF & HPF

barryjive

New member
Hi folks, first post.
I'm working on 2 Pendulum builds (my first of this circuit). I'd like to make it flatter in EQ (more "transparent), and have read a few threads here on how to do that. I tried putting a 4n7 cap across the volume pot and changing C4 to a 68nF cap as outlined in this thread, but that wasn't what I was looking for. Too dull sounding, as it worked out for me.
Here is what I'm thinking of trying next, and wanted to know if you all think it's a good idea:
If I change C2 to a 15nF cap, I believe that would set the HPF to 884hz.
If I change C3 to a 10nF cap, I believe that would set the LPF to the same frequency, 884hz.
Am I correct in thinking that moving the HPF and LPF closer together would result in a flatter, more transparent frequency response overall? Thanks for your help. I've been soldering kits for years but have just recently sought to understand what I'm doing, electronically.
 
Just reduce the 4n7 to something between 1n and 3n3 then? Not all caps are the same, some kill more top end than others.

Altering the filters might also work, you might want to put in trim pots and/or socket the caps, but I found it easier this way.
 
Update:
I tried more different caps across the volume pot but still didn't quite like it. So I changed C2 to 15nF and C3 to 10nF as mentioned above, and it was just about perfect. I ended up really liking the 68nF as the output capacitor (C4) that jesuscrisp suggested in the other thread. I was doing 2 builds so I could A/B them and using the stock 1u output cap did roll off some highs. Some folks might want that, so to each their own.

Thanks for the help! These things sound really nice, even built to spec. The mods I made are to my taste.

I also built a pair of Caesar choruses and holy moly, those things are fantastic. Here are some pics of my builds. Enclosures printed at Tayda. Fun stuff!
 

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