Simple mistake Boteh drive help

[ChrsGuit]

So a few weeks ago, I finished a Boteh drive (Paisley Drive by Wampler)...
It turned out sounding incredible... lots of dynamics and attitude... I absolutely love it.

I stumbled across a good deal on a Wampler and decided to pick it up to compare... Mine sounded so much more fat and dynamic than the Wampler version... it was the obvious winner... I did a shootout video and a buddy commissioned me to build him two...

Well, last night I'm populating the boards and realized that I had accidentally picked up a 2.2nf to install into C2 (22nf)... No big deal... I went to grab the right part and realized I had incorrectly restocked my parts bin with the wrong value...
I went and looked at my already-complete Boteh, and yeah... I had installed a 2.2nf instead of the specified 22nf...

This presents me with a question, as I crash into the wall of my inexperience and limited knowledge on circuitry...

Common sense tells me "you like the sound of that component instead of the specified component... you don't like the factory pedal as much as the "incorrect" one...So make it "wrong"... Easy choice to make...
however... as far as the circuit is concerned is there any issue with using this incorrect value, as far as it relates to the rest of the circuit... since I'm making these for a friend who intends to give another to a buddy of his as a gift...
If there are no long-term issues that can arise, I'm going to keep this "flaw" as a happy accident... Thoughts, concerns, etc?

 

[ChrsGuit]

Here is the schematic in question

 

[music6000]

Here is the schematic in question

Being at the start of the Circuit, it should sound a lot thinner than the stock Pailsley with 2.2nf.
This is a common mod that is done to Fatten a circuit up by increasing the Input cap so you may have another component in the circuit that is giving you this result you are getting???

 

[music6000]

Can you post a picture of your original Build clearly showing all the resistors?

 

[ChrsGuit]

I've checked my other components and all are up to spec.
I tested everything else and the only components I could figure would be the 470n film caps in C7.
All mine tested slightly high, but still within the 20% tolerance (most tested just below 500... in the 490 range... this seems to be tied to the presence control. The rest are relatively close... even the electrolytics... they are 220uf, and tested relatively close... maybe 230-233uf

 

[ChrsGuit]

Can you post a picture of your original Build clearly showing all the resistors?

can do

 

[ChrsGuit]

Can you post a picture of your original Build clearly showing all the resistors?

 

[ChrsGuit]

Being at the start of the Circuit, it should sound a lot thinner than the stock Pailsley with 2.2nf.
This is a common mod that is done to Fatten a circuit up by increasing the Input cap so you may have another component in the circuit that is giving you this result you are getting???

To update, I made the call to go ahead and use the 2.2 In my other builds... I hand-picked all components to match the values of my original build... example, the doc calls for two 511k (which don't exist, I found) resistors, I only had 510's, but all tested a touch high at 520k... I rolled the dice on them anyway... Also, my electrolytics either tested 230uf, and another batch I had all tested lower... around 206uf... so I used the 230...
Just finished building out the two pedals commissioned by my friend, set the knobs the same and cycled through them... almost indiscernable (is that a word? Perhaps indistinguishable? idk, moving on...) from one another... So I guess I arrived at the conclusion that I have everything correct and the first wasn't a fluke... and had I used the specified 22n cap, I might have ended up with a pedal I might not have liked as much... maybe I'll modify mine and put both values on a toggle at a later date for research purposes...

 

[music6000]

To update, I made the call to go ahead and use the 2.2 In my other builds... I hand-picked all components to match the values of my original build... example, the doc calls for two 511k (which don't exist, I found) resistors, I only had 510's, but all tested a touch high at 520k... I rolled the dice on them anyway... Also, my electrolytics either tested 230uf, and another batch I had all tested lower... around 206uf... so I used the 230...
Just finished building out the two pedals commissioned by my friend, set the knobs the same and cycled through them... almost indiscernable (is that a word? Perhaps indistinguishable? idk, moving on...) from one another... So I guess I arrived at the conclusion that I have everything correct and the first wasn't a fluke... and had I used the specified 22n cap, I might have ended up with a pedal I might not have liked as much... maybe I'll modify mine and put both values on a toggle at a later date for research purposes...

Is the Wampler a SMD version, he may have modified from the version PedalPCB has?
I own the First version with 3pdt footswitch true bypass which is at least 10 years or more with 22nF.
YMMV, but 22nf is going to fatten the sound which is what you want, Brad Paisley plays on the Bridge pickup of a Tele!???

 

[Sturdag Lagernathy]

+1 on the switch! By the rules of the internet, that would make it a completely and totally original circuit, ready for mass market..

 

[ChrsGuit]

Is the Wampler a SMD version, he may have modified from the version PedalPCB has?
I own the First version with 3pdt footswitch true bypass which is at least 10 years or more with 22nF.
YMMV, but 22nf is going to fatten the sound which is what you want, Brad Paisley plays on the Bridge pickup of a Tele!???

I have the older thru-hole version you have as well, and unless it has a bad cap or something in it, the one I built sounds fuller... It's almost as if the factory version is missing a bunch of mid-range and low mid content to it.
Granted, I did buy it used, but it's in relatively good condition... but that doesn't mean there isn't a problem.
Not to detract from Mr Wampler, but the soldering inside on the jacks is pretty bad, so perhaps there is something else going on...

I wish there were a way to post a video comparison so you could see them head to head... It's a significant difference. Maybe I'll take my Wampler version apart and see if there are any solder joints that need reflowed and do a better job soldering in those switches. I've found everything from broken or pinched wires to grounds totally absent in some pedals before...

 

[ChrsGuit]

Here's a few internal shots...
The "Farmer John" tbp switch adapter is interesting... I wonder is this was an older run before Brad signed off on it, a prototype or just a factory "code word" used to distinguish them in production.
Also pictured are the ones I built... I'm pretty happy with the results... I think they're presentable enough where someone wouldn't mind them on their board...

 

[music6000]

Here's a few internal shots...
The "Farmer John" tbp switch adapter is interesting... I wonder is this was an older run before Brad signed off on it, a prototype or just a factory "code word" used to distinguish them in production.
Also pictured are the ones I built... I'm pretty happy with the results... I think they're presentable enough where someone wouldn't mind them on their board...

What are the first 2 letters on the serial number?
The second cap on the left from the bottom in mine is 223 = 22nF.
The first cap on the left in mine is 101 = 100pF, That Cap in yours looks BIG like Wrong!???
You can see 100pF written on the PCB.
It looks like it may have been messed with, I own nearly a dozen Wampler pedals & have never seen Jacks look like that.
Mine has wires directly to the footswitch, 2010 Build.

Click til it's really Big

 

[ChrsGuit]

What are the first 2 letters on the serial number?
The second cap on the left from the bottom in mine is 223 = 22nF.
The first cap on the left in mine is 101 = 100pF, That Cap in yours looks BIG like Wrong!???
You can see 100pF written on the PCB.
It looks like it may have been messed with, I own nearly a dozen Wampler pedals & have never seen Jacks look like that.
Mine has wires directly to the footswitch, 2010 Build.

Click til it's really Big

View attachment 53544

I'm not seeing a serial on mine...
The backplate of the enclosure has a decal saying "Paisley Drive 12-3238"

The pcb has "PD_11-10 below the power jack.

The film cap DOES look different... I can't see a value, but it's a red plastic WIMA box cap compared to the other Brown film caps. The only red film caps I've seen like that have been 1ufs. There is a 5 on the back of the cap, but it doesn't seem to be a value. The front says "WIMA" with more possible writing below. Impossible to tell without removal. Perhaps I can figure out a way to test it in place.

Jacks on mine were very sloppy, so someone might have tried messing with this at some point... I may message the seller on Reverb and ask him the story on the pedal

 

[mybud]

There is a 5 on the back of the cap, but it doesn't seem to be a value.

You're correct, @ChrsGuit. That 5 represents the cap's tolerance, not its value in pF, uF, what have you.