Aquire a multi meter and use your continuity mode to check if there are any connections where there shouldn't be. Your board looks okay, but I would run a bit more solder over your 24LC32A IC's pin 1 as it looks a little wonky from the photo.
For solder wick I like to use superwick 425-lf, it's...
Nice! I built one of these and used 1815's as well. It doesn't have as much gain as the Boss version on the youtube demos I watched. I was thinking the other day about finding a similar transistor with maybe a different pinout. Maybe over the winter
The LED being slightly on even with the board off means DC power is remaining in the circuit. You can probably get the LED to light up brighter if you touch the cathode with your finger. Use your finger and poke around to see which part of the circuit makes the LED brighter. See if this only...
double check the lower toggle, it's missing solder on two of the pins. Those kind of jacks are not good quality unless they're genuine switchcraft. It's ok to use 1uf MLCC if you can't fit films nicely. The Wima 50v 1uf film are the way to go if you want to use film. Make sure you sourced the...
What looks like a short from C2 to R3 in the bottom left corner is the main stand out from your pics.
It sounds like your circuit is being bypassed even when the switch is enabled. Try tweaking the trim pot.
The leads on the back of your board could be trimmed shorter, and a lot of them look...
My experience with ribbon cable was poor as well. It seems like a good idea to keep it organized but any time it moves around the weight of the entire cable is put on the outer edge solder joints which breaks the wire
+1 to offboard mounted switches and jacks, and silicone or hot glue to secure...
I've had some time to play this and it is fantastic. The way I have it dialed, with everything at about 10 o'clock, it's perfect as a light overdrive with just a bit more oomph. Think AC/DC but they're playing a country gig. The saturation is tight and individual notes are well defined - you can...
You could do heat shrink. It's a bit fiddly but would certainly work.
Another idea is to remove the next component and install a new one, but instead of trimming its lead, bend it at a 90 degree about 5mm above the board so it clears any of the stuff below it. Like a bridge over the solder...
^ I bumped my off board pot wiring from 20ga down to 24, thinking the same thing
Bad news on the chorus front - it was fine at first but I went to play it yesterday and the rate control was behaving erratically. I couldn't assign a pattern to it - it would be full on fast, then if I turned the...
Yes the pulldown resistors are the ones just after the inputs. If the vol control is the last thing in the circuit before the output, it acts as a pulldown resistor as well.
You have DC leaking into the audio signal somewhere. It's more likely to be an issue with the wiring than bad parts...
Ok, that's definitely a step in the right direction! You should be good to go after this. Take a really good look at your board where the sockets were and clean it up with isopropyl alcohol and Q tips. I would also test for continuity in both the sockets you took out, as well as the TL072's, esp...
It's really more of an issue when removing parts, ie when applying heat for too long, and usually it's just a solder pad that gets ripped up. But physical damage is the kind of thing that would break connections, rather than shorting them, so I wouldn't worry about that for now.
Let's rewind and reassess.
First, when you have bypass sound but nothing when the pedal is on, it's a classic sign that something is shorted from 9v to ground on the pedal. The kliche has buffered bypass though, so if something is shorted, it will also cut the sound when the pedal is off...
I just built one of these but the board I had used a single gang pot for the texture control. The current pic of the board shows a dual gang. I checked the schem but it hasn't been updated yet. What was the change for?
https://www.pedalpcb.com/product/skylight/