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You ain't gonna like it here

I might try that one. Their website layout is a huge turn off for me. Why do all the boards say "best" in the titles? Which one really is the best?

sold out atm :/

@bean does the newer version of the Touchstone fit physically in a 1590b?

I want to make a chorus or flanger into a 1590b, preferably horizontal. Who has a PCB small enough to go in one of these?

Superwick 425 desoldering braid is the key here. After you wick out most of the solder, press the pins over inside the solder pad hole with the soldering iron, then wick out the remnant solder. Should come out nicely.

Sometimes you need to take the PCB and move things around until you get the functionality you want. The pedal looks like it's set up with 3 LEDs - one to indicate bypass, one for 1 octave up and another for 2 octaves up. The one oct up is always on. It's weird to me they did it like that but...

Decide whether you want the switches to be on the + side or the - side of the LED. That determines whether you use common anode or cathode

Well I spent some time with this and... I don't like it It's not that it's bad, it's just that it my flanger has a more satisfying modulation. And my cepheid looks nicer Okay, so not comparing it to others, how does it sound on its own? The rate and depth controls are the same as on the CE-2...

No, both of those just affect the EQ. I would breadboard the circuit and see if it sounds the same

SW/GND at the four solder pads at the bottom is just for the bypass LED. He's using the audio jack daughter board, which is connected, but the connection at the black wire looks like a garbage fire When you solder wires, do it by stripping 1/4" of insulation off, then twist the strands together...

Deductively... C5 on the board = C4 on the BOM.. C10 on the board = C100 on the BOM. C9 on the board looks like C101 on the BOM There is no R100 on the board, or LED R7 is listed as 4.65k, which is interesting D100 on the BOM is D1 on the board But I would trace the board and compare it to...

It's really easy, just build the second footswitch to mimic the function of the toggle, then on its second set of poles, that's where you put your LED wires. First, you want to remove one leg of the LED CLR and solder a wire to it (in practice this means use a new resistor). That wire will now...

I honestly like pedals with fewer controls, and the Boss chorus is EQ'd pretty nicely to my ears. That being said, it's your design and you should do what you think is interesting. But I would find the Cepheid + Celsius combo well worth the effort on its own

If you tested the pedal and it was fine before installing the last two pots, LED, and exp jacks, then I would start by desoldering those components wire by wire until you find the component that stops the noise. Then inspect that and replace it if necessary

IT'S ALIVE!!!!!! I was perusing thru my collection of projects laid to rest (the trash can) and came across these dismembered remains and began to reanimate them in the spirit of the holidays I went thru a roll of desoldering braid cleaning the circuit board I tried to correct the pitfalls of...

C23 according to the schem is a 2.2uf electrolytic rated at 35 volts. Based on how the cables look, it's a safe assumption that J6 and J29 are the send wires, with J29 being the sleeve, or bare wire, and J30 and J31 are the return wires, with J31 being the white. I would solder directly to the...

Pins 1 and 2 of IC1 having continuity is ok. I agree with the VREF issue, it should be higher than 3.5, but the gain pot scratchy issue could be that it's leaking DC into the audio path somewhere. The back of the gain pot does not contact the PCB in this case I believe the weird reading on...

You're going to want to audio probe it and investigate the area where the signal drops out along the bypass signal path. The signal having crackle when the gain pot is low is a clue that AC and DC voltage are mixing when they shouldn't. I would check all the pins of your IC sockets and see if...