Recent content by JTEX

Where are you located? I'm in Canada, Digikey shipping is C$8. So is Mouser if you don't just accept the default, but dig through the options and select the cheapest (USPS).

Mouser, of course. I don't trust any part that does not come with a datasheet and from a known manufacturer with a website, address etc.

Since this seems to invite discussion, here's my C$0.02. (n) Disagree on all counts. I do all of the above on a regular basis and actually prefer it to doing the same with through hole parts. YMMV. (n) I couldn't disagree any stronger. I avoid non-plated-through holes like the plague...

Needs a tone pot.

FWIW, I use white for input (makes me think of innocent, celestial, bride, not f*cked with yet) and yellow for output (the idea being that it's more colored than the input). Red is always the positive rail and ground is black. If there's a negative rail, I'll pick a cold color like blue or purple.

If you do buy MLCC, never get anything worse than X5R or X7R, and overspec the voltage by a factor of 3 or more if there's a DC bias across the cap. That's pretty much it, in a nutshell.

If they work as expected in-circuit, I'd say that's the gold standard. Who is DCA75 to say otherwise? I tested and sorted all my MMBF201's in-circuit.

^ D'accord, mais je ne suis pas francophone non plus...

Non-native English speaker: large rectangular tin box such as the ones that come with some Danish cookies Native speaker : cookie tin 😕

The package doesn't need to be physically with customs to be cleared. They can clear it as soon as they receive the electronic shipping documents from the sender.

If you want really good shielding, consider putting the breadboard in a large rectangular tin box such as the ones that come with some Danish cookies etc. You could easily mount some I/O jacks to the box itself. You can even put the lid on when you need full shielding.

You can etch your own PCBs and there are no tariffs :LOL: Back to the old ways.

If the cap is not directly (zero ohm) across the power rail, but wired through a resistor, FET etc, don't worry about it. BTW you don't need a lot of capacitance across the output of a DC-DC, since they operate at high frequency.

Littelfuse or Coto Technology. You'll find them on Mouser, Digikey etc. I wouldn't trust any electronic component from Amazon or any other site that doesn't specify the manufacturer and part number, with a datasheet available. NC reeds are extremely uncommon. I think you'd be better off...

This switch style ought to be jerry-riggable into a self contained low profile reed switch contraption. A little PCB with a reed on it instead of the original body, some plunger with a magnet inside, reuse the X (or rather Y) clips for fastening, and behold! A new pedal part is born. I've been...