Recent content by MobyOctopad

Carbon Black's another one

I picked up a small batch of these from one of the forum's esteemed Ukrainian eBay sellers but stashed them because I thought they'd be difficult to use on a PCB. Was it too much of an issue dealing with their leads?

Maybe look into something like the 2N3705s, gain between 50-150 hfe according to this Mouser datasheet

I remember reading somewhere - probably an older post in the forum - that you want the octave diodes to be within something like .01v of one another to maximize the octave effect. That might've been for something like a Green Ringer, though, so not sure if that applies to the Fuzzy Foxx...

Everything about this is killer. Huge, huge fan of your aesthetic but this is just *chef's kiss*

Oh good to know, thanks again!

I was using some Wyctin 60-40 I bought a few months ago and the stock tip that comes with a Hakko. And I was tinning the tip but might have been wiping too much of it off on my sponge before trying to heat the pad. I'll definitely keep that in mind on my next attempt, thanks!

That's great to hear, thanks! Other than increasing the temperature, is there anything I should be doing differently? I applied the iron to the pad and lead for a few seconds before applying the solder on the other side of the lead but it struggled to flow at all. Towards the end I was more...

Despite (mostly) lurking on the forum for a while now, it wasn’t until this month that I finally had the space to set up a small workspace to finally start working through the pile of boards I’ve accumulated. I thought I’d start by building the protoboard micro I bought a while back to try out...

This looks awesome! I could've sworn the Peach Fuzz called for two LM386N-1s. Did you get a chance to test both kinds at all?

Ah, sorry, should've broken out my post more cleanly. I wanted to add the Schaller schematics as a couple of other FF derivatives per @BuddytheReow 's ask in his initial post. My question was about the connection between R2 and R4 in the Meathead schematic, which I originally had a hard time...

I'm hoping to apply your breadboarding tutorials to try out both versions of the Ge Schaller Fuzz! I did also have a quick clarifying question, if you don't mind my asking: I was under the impression that a dot on the schematic meant you needed a connection between components, but on first...

Great build and write-up as always! (Slowly adds the SugarBag to cart) Don't suppose you have other recommendations for folks who do, in fact, like that old school, Supro-ish trashy amp sounds, would you?

I've ordered from them several times over the past year without any issue. Based on what derevaun said about another Ukrainian seller, I wonder if Oleh's doing the same thing these days. I'm also waiting on an order from him and noticed this was the first time the listing said it was mailing...

I was going to ask about the gain and leakage of the transistors in the Buzz Tone. It's one of the few older fuzz circuits whose transistor specs I haven't been able to find in old diystompbox threads. I think the 2N2613 is supposed to be pretty high gain so maybe that's part of it?