Recent content by moosapotamus

For starters, I never buy PCB mount style pots. I always buy pots with solder lugs, which seem to be much more widely available from various suppliers. I solder about 4-5 cm of bare 22AWG bus wire to each lug so it can be mounted to the PCB. This also makes them more flexible when positioning...

Nice, clean looking build. I plan to try putting my straylight build into a BB2 enclosure, maybe even a BB, so I can have it UV printed by Tayda. Since the height of the bulb is actually less than the taller electros on the main board, you may also be able to trim down the sides of the light...

When I use two status LEDs of the same type and color, I connect the anodes together, connect the cathodes together, then treat them as a single LED with a single CLR. Like others have said, I work out the value of the CLR by trial and error on a breadboard or with alligator clips. Occasionally...

A build document would be nice, wouldn't it? Footprint looks like it could be a Lorlin SP12T.

I do work kinda slow sometimes. But I had to verify a couple of things before I ordered my enclosure. So, here's the plan... S/P - Series/Parallel (as above) - DPDT toggle (on-on-on) Switch to Parallel for stereo operation. Gives a different feel in mono, too. 2/4/6 - Number of filter stages...

Yes, both inputs in parallel for stereo, sorry. I'm locked into doing this series/parallel mod. I don't think I will ever need or use a second external input jack if I add the S/P switch. In parallel mode the input gets sent to the inputs of both phasers internally. Also, by using a switching...

For stereo output, I don't see why you would use the secondary input unless you are mixing two different instruments/inputs, one to the first phaser and a different one to the second phaser. Is that what you are doing? Secondary input makes total sense if you want to be able to treat it like...

OK, got it (duh). Input goes to phaser B first, then to phaser A. I got confused going from left to right on the schematic. All good... 😎

Yep, the trimmer looks like it is for the input gain. Might be useful as an external control, maybe? I need to build myself one of these. Had a blast back in the day playing around with Dean Hazelwanter's pitch shifter project which used to be at GGG. Looks like that's what the Robot is based on.

So, anyway... I am excited to build the Duo-Phase. Got the PCB, finally ordered needed parts and started working out how to do a couple other mods I'm interested in trying. But I've hit a roadblock. The reference designations in the PCB layout image on the first page of the build doc seems to...

I am curious to know from others that have already built the Duo-Phase with the extra I/O, how often do you really use the Phasor B input, and how do you actually use it? I'm thinking of leaving it out because, other than mixing two different instruments together, I'm not seeing how else it...

The Duo-Phase operates with the two phasers always in series. I'm thinking it would be cool to add a Series/Parallel switch. Something like this... Seems kinda like a simplified version of the Phaser B input switch on the Mu-tron. Moving on to add the dual inputs/outputs raised a few...

Thx! No vinyl at all. It's all UV printing. The enclosure, paint, drilling and UV printing all by Tayda. The green color on the face is just the color of the enclosure showing thru. Also, for the UV printing, I almost always get the white layer printed twice so that the enclosure color doesn't...

Here's my ECHOREC ( Hydra delay ) build. UV printing and drilling by Tayda. Very happy with how the enclosure came out. Love the rhythmic delays that come out of this little box, too. It can be adjusted to sound washy or atmospheric, which sounds cool but not necessarily all that unique. But...

Thanks for the replies. I like the speed mod. Could also make it switchable, hi/low range. Thx!