Recent content by Redredbettyz

I used a BC109 with Hfe of 141 for the middle transistor that fixed my issue.

I think I got mine figured out. If anyone experiences the same problem, try out a lower gain transistor than the 2n3904 as the center transistor on the PCB.

Just built this up and it sounds pretty sweet. It's a nice mid-high gain one knobber with tons of output volume. I have noticed that there is a strange high frequency noise/crunch when I start cranking the volume pot much further than unity volume. Is there a certain hfe I should be looking for...

Awesome! The 1uF cap worked like a charm. Thanks for finding a solution for me!

I used LEDs for the clipping diodes and they aren't lighting up when playing in bypass so the diodes seem to be grounding in bypass. When I lower the gain control in bypass, the background noise goes away. Does the same IC that is used for the buffer provide any op-amp distortion anywhere else...

I double checked all the ground connections and everything seems to have continuity. I tried the additional wire and there was no difference in the background noise.

I recently built up and Informant. I wired it up with the according to the buffered bypass diagram. When I have the pedal bypassed I can hear a faint distortion in the background of the clean signal, as if the circuit's distorted signal is bleeding through. I'd love to keep it as a buffered...

"I fully expected questions about this one because it's another one that sounds basically nothing like any of the demos unless it's run into a cranked high gain amp. It's awfully bright and thin into a clean / crunchy amp. (just like the original) " I'll second that. I had an original for a few...

Yes, I'm very interested in the key input feature. Does it involve using a TRS jack and wiring it to short when there is no 1/4" plug present? If so, I can probably figure it out before you get the build documents out.

Can confirm on the bad LT1054, bad luck I guess. They have been my preferred charge pump because of lack of issues i've run into with them. I put a MAX1044 in there temporarily to check if I could get signal through, and it worked with some background noise issues (as expected). Got a new batch...

Looks like it was a bad LT1054 causing the overheating. Things seem to be up and going in my test rig. Thanks for your help!

I wired a spdt toggle switch to the three hole area. I left the two hole open. I assume the two hole is key input and the three is the range jumper?

Anyone give this PCB a shot? I get no signal and the THAT 4301 gets very hot in a short amount of time. I've gone over the board for cold joints, or misplaced components a few times and everything looks good. Does it sound like I got a bad THAT IC? I hope not, that thing was not cheap.