Recent content by southpaw-dd

I like the idea on the angled control label text. Cool engraving!

I built an Aion Arcturus last night and it is interesting that Kevin is starting to use footprints and BOMs for large film values (e.g., 2u2 and 3u3) rather than electrolytics in the signal path. Some boards are too cramped to allow for that, but I'm a fan of at least providing that option in...

This is a helpful resource that I found recently: https://www.ti.com/lit/an/slyt796a/slyt796a.pdf?ts=1754263907771 Generally, film is going to be the lowest THD / noise introduced in the signal path. Edit: this might have been linked somewhere on this forum by another user...just re-sharing.

Yes I have been watching out for the PPCB flush mount version to get back in stock. It has been a while…

Really appreciate this as I've been wanting to use something like this on Aion builds. I'd love to get the pcbway share or zip file.

I'm jealous of your custom DC/Jacks board. I wish Aion would sell the one they include in kits as a separate item.

I typically use internal lock washers on 16mm pots, but on stacked board pedals, I now exclude them. It does make a bit of difference on the clearance between the top board and the enclosure lid.

I needed to order some from Mouser so used these Samtec part numbers for the 2-pin: TSW-102-07-L-S SSW-102-01-L-S

I did a quick check by opening the PDF in Affinity Designer and it seems good. The spot colors for White and Gloss matched my setup.

Hi @ftumch - this drill template worked well for me. I've attached pictures that show the LED being directly under the board mount location (just above the footswitch wiring thru-holes).

Yes, I've learned this lesson as of late. I ordered a Kliche Mini Special box with the default PPCB Tayda north-side jack locations and it didn't work. I've started moving the jacks closer to the lid side edge on recent drill templates.

Looks great @Barry! All good with the drill template? Thanks for the tip about the pot taper on the gain.

Hey @MichaelW - yes, tried that and didn't have any luck. I may have a different issue because I found a bad WIMA film 220n cap in that part of the circuit and replaced it, then the signal looked much better, but resulted with the 'unity gain' issue using both 4580s and 4558s (in both IC...

Glad I found this thread! I'm having the same issue with the gain knob not changing the signal (looks like unity gain through the op-amp on o-scope). Changing to 4558 did not help my situation - both sets of op-amps purchased through Mouser. Any other ideas?

Nice work! I got (re)-started with DIY a few years ago by building a dozen Aion kits.