Recent content by T-Go

Glad to hear that worked for you. I know that going to FedEx Office and getting the printer settings straight to achieve optimum results is a bit of a struggle too. It seems that more ink printed to the transfer sheet produces better results.

Cool artwork! The graphics transfer part of the pedal building process is definitely the most frustrating part for me. Lots of trial and error involved. I actually bought a cheap blow dryer just so I wouldn't kill my wife's blow dryer, and then she would kill me.:ROFLMAO: I really do think...

1. I do squeegee the decal quite a bit, but I try not to overdo it. I repeatedly dip the squeegee in water to help with the flow. Also, I use distilled water, which is supposedly important for proper adhesion. 2. I typically wait just a half hour, but I've left it longer if I had other stuff...

I have a heat gun too and it is way too hot for this. It would melt the plastic transfer sheet and probably damage the powder coating if applicable. You can actually light a cigarette with a heat gun. That's hot!

I do believe there may be something to the hair dryer treatment. The hot air is very direct on the transfer sheet. I can't actually see it happening, but I'm pretty sure the direct heat is releasing the ink onto the enclosure. I've had some failures with the hair dryer method, where I wasn't...

Thanks! I haven't tried transferring to bare aluminum, only Tayda powder coated enclosures. It's important to first prep the enclosure surface. I do a quick wipe with alcohol soaked paper towel beforehand. The last few times I used the film-free decals, I went to FedEx Office and used their...

I did a quick once over and everything seems to be the correct polarity, including the power jack. Since you have a multimeter, I would check for continuity between connections. If you can read the schematic, try to isolate some potential problem spots, put the meter on speaker mode and listen...

Have you tried turning the trim pot?

Here's the last pedal I built using the Sunnyscopa film-free waterslide decal paper and Mod Podge Dishwasher Safe glue. Awesome pedal by the way.

Yes, that's the exact same bottle. I ran out of the W1+ glue and read somewhere that this stuff works. It's very durable and heat resistant.

I actually like the Mod Podge Dishwasher safe glue better than the original glue. There's still a learning curve with the whole transfer process, but it seems more forgiving than the original W1+ glue.

I would add to be sparing with any acetone wipe on powder coated enclosures. Just a light wipe down will begin to dull the finish. Heavier wipe downs will begin removing the powder coating. I haven't tried the new glue, so I have no experience with it, but I always wipe down my enclosures with...

K-9 Krunch

I saw this earlier. Sorry, I should've initially replied with this since a picture's worth a thousand words. https://forum.pedalpcb.com/threads/emu-amp-simulator.1485/post-222812

Maybe I'm totally off base here, but I think you just need to push one of the header pins out of the plastic holding them together. When you look at the board, there are 3 holes on each side of each switch, followed by a space, and then one more hole. Just push out the pin that would normally go...