Recent content by Tassieviking

You should have a 10mm space since the pots use 10mm, I measured 10 1uF 630V caps from Tayda and 2 were under 10mm thick for my builds.

I would guess that it would be the Super Bright pink LED SKU: A-4732 from Tayda, whatever LED you use make sure it is Super Bright with very high MCD rating. You can increase the brightness of the LED by using a lower value dropping resistors R4 and R6, you can lower the resistor as low as 510...

This is my drill layout that I have made from all the C2CE 1590BB Drill Files, I start any tracing of any C2CE PCB with the drill file layout in KiCad so I get things right. I used it when I made my little 1w tube amp in a 1590BB2 case so I got the tubes in the right place. Each pedal has it's...

When I used to make my own PCB's for pedals I usually stuck to the same drill layout all the time, it makes it so much easier and you can keep a spare enclosure with all the different drill holes in it at home for all the test PCB you make, you can box any PCB up so you can safely test them with...

I usually use this one: https://www.taydaelectronics.com/mini-toggle-switch-spdt-on-none-on.html You can use this one if you want to have more of the switch stick out, but it is more fiddly to hold in position to solder it in place...

Nearly everything I can get my hands on, when the time is right I won't delay even a second to build the last one I know about. ;):LOL::ROFLMAO: I can't help myself The urge is just too strong. Cheers Mick

C4 is only at whatever voltage you supply the pedal with, since you should keep it at or below 14V DC maximum you could even use a 16V cap there very safely so I see no problem with using a 25V cap.

There are some great calculators for tube circuits if you want to learn some more, https://www.ampbooks.com/mobile/amplifier-calculators/ I use them a lot because I like to understand what is happening on any pedal circuit that I build Cheers Mick

I downloaded the build docs for the King Nothing in January 2024 and the link is correct on my build doc, just to let you know.

The top of R4 should be connected to ground on the PCB, then it goes from the bottom of R4 to the two right hand side pins of the tube risers to the Tube PCB, from there it goes to the round negative pad of the LED itself, the positive leg of the LED goes to pin 5 of the tube which is the...

On the C2CE website on the "Drill Templates And Artwork Files" page there is a link in the text up top that goes to an example of how to order boxes with drill and paint files from Tayda. https://c2celectronics.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/07/Tayda-Electronics-Enclosure-Service-Walkthrough.pdf...

That would be perfect for what I am looking for, any chance I can have it ? Otherwise just a drawing would be great as well, I am used to making my own footprints in KiCad. Thanks Mick

I have been looking for the footprint for wah inductors for a while and I can't seem to find any that I can use, I use KiCad to make circuit boards and I want to make some up to experiment with a tube driven wah. Is there any chance someone can drop some drawings of the inductors here ? Pin...

Nice build, it looks good and now I'm gonna have to try mine with a 12AT7 tube as well. The vents are there to show off the glowing tubes but are not really needed for ventilation since it is just the preamp section, not that much heat but I will always use vents anyway. I think he Bassdude is...

Did the cat catch the Yeti it's sleeping on ?