Recent content by Tassieviking

I would change C2 to change HPF, the lower C2 is the less Bass is going to get through. For Bass guitar I might change it to 10uF or even 4u7 to loose the muddy bit from the bottom end, I think it is best done by trail and error and what your ears tell you. You can also do it with C1 but I am...

Right under the "te" in Steddi

I like that little tune in the clip, did you download it or make it ? If you downloaded it do you remember where and what it is called ? That beat has really grown on me to the point where I might have to get a looper just to test pedals with, my arthritic fingers have not improved my atrocious...

My traces are playing up too since I updated Kicad last time, there must be a bug in the new version.

I think I worked out why it let you run traces through the mounting pads, in your schematic the pots don't have the mounting pad showing so you have not been able to attach the mounting pads to the ground plane. I think there is a symbol for the pots with mounting pads in the schematic editor...

You should be able to cut those traces with a sharp blade and then just run a small wire linking R14 to R15, not a big problem for one of your first boards. I think I have done a lot worse over the years, I keep forgetting to let KiCad run an error check sometimes and I miss some of those things...

I think that since you are only connecting one triode you should really use a 1K6 resistor and a 120uF capacitor, that way the voltage drop across the resistor stays the same as the original. I also doubt you would notice any difference whichever way you do it, if you really want to be correct...

What exactly do you mean by "pull down resistors" ? If it is to reduce any pops when changing the switches then I think the best way is to pre-charge all the un-used caps to the same voltage they they will be charged up to when in circuit, I usually do this on high voltage caps with a high value...

I take it you want the Bassdude to play guitar on, I usually adapt the circuits to suit a Bass guitar more but there are some mods described in "The Mod Squad" thread I started. The mods you describe all sound ok to me if you want to make the sound brighter with less bottom end, I believe I...

There are drill guides and art work for all the C2CE projects on the C2CE webpage, there is white artwork for dark boxes and black artwork for light boxes. I get them made at Tayda since they can drill and apply the artwork to any box they sell...

I like to read Rob Robinettes amp pages and I thought I might make myself a small 1-2watt Soldano SLO preamp and a separate poweramp and stick them in pedals, after I drew up the preamp schematic in KiCad I thought it looked very familiar and guess what ? It is nearly an exact copy of the Mesa...

Check it in the TSC calculator first so you can see whats happening, remember to leave the Mid pot on 10 as the Nobelium uses R21 instead of a Mid pot. Just click on "Edit" and change values and then click "Apply" and then you can slide the Bass and Treble pots to see what happens, you can also...

I built mine with a volt/ammeter from Tayda that cost me $1.59 US and put it in a 1590A box with 2 9v sockets , cheaper then the kit. https://www.taydaelectronics.com/led-dc-dual-display-voltmeter-red-blue-led-0-28inch.html...

I think the best option is to buy a power supply from the C2CE shop now that there are power supplies available. I am going to buy several power supplies with my next PCB order so I can have a power supply available every time someone borrows a Sushi or C2CE pedal from me. I think for $13 each...

I think what the new switches on that Nobelium that is for sale do is connect the 1/4" input directly to the 1/4" output, also the XLR transformer is connected directly to the 1/4" input socket. It is a way of bypassing all the electronics in the pedal itself, if you loose power to the pedal you...