Recent content by Tassieviking

You made me check my old build of the Diplomat and you are right, there is no R21 on the PCB's. I just looked at the build doc when I answered before so I did not realise that it is missing from the PCB's. That will be the right place to put a dropping resistor but it will only work if you make...

If you have a link where R21 470k resistor should be you have increased the output of the pedal by about 30%, R21 limits the output of the signal. If you add a 22k resistor across leg 1-3 on the volume pot you have also changed the tone of the pedal a lot, you have lost a lot of the low end of...

Is the 1/4" output crackly at all? Check it with the phase switch in both positions to make sure please. If the 1/4" output is fine then try a different XLR cable, also check all solder connections in case any are bad. If you could please provide some pictures of the front and back of all the...

You should have a 10mm space since the pots use 10mm, I measured 10 1uF 630V caps from Tayda and 2 were under 10mm thick for my builds.

I would guess that it would be the Super Bright pink LED SKU: A-4732 from Tayda, whatever LED you use make sure it is Super Bright with very high MCD rating. You can increase the brightness of the LED by using a lower value dropping resistors R4 and R6, you can lower the resistor as low as 510...

This is my drill layout that I have made from all the C2CE 1590BB Drill Files, I start any tracing of any C2CE PCB with the drill file layout in KiCad so I get things right. I used it when I made my little 1w tube amp in a 1590BB2 case so I got the tubes in the right place. Each pedal has it's...

When I used to make my own PCB's for pedals I usually stuck to the same drill layout all the time, it makes it so much easier and you can keep a spare enclosure with all the different drill holes in it at home for all the test PCB you make, you can box any PCB up so you can safely test them with...

I usually use this one: https://www.taydaelectronics.com/mini-toggle-switch-spdt-on-none-on.html You can use this one if you want to have more of the switch stick out, but it is more fiddly to hold in position to solder it in place...

Nearly everything I can get my hands on, when the time is right I won't delay even a second to build the last one I know about. ;):LOL::ROFLMAO: I can't help myself The urge is just too strong. Cheers Mick

C4 is only at whatever voltage you supply the pedal with, since you should keep it at or below 14V DC maximum you could even use a 16V cap there very safely so I see no problem with using a 25V cap.

There are some great calculators for tube circuits if you want to learn some more, https://www.ampbooks.com/mobile/amplifier-calculators/ I use them a lot because I like to understand what is happening on any pedal circuit that I build Cheers Mick

I downloaded the build docs for the King Nothing in January 2024 and the link is correct on my build doc, just to let you know.

The top of R4 should be connected to ground on the PCB, then it goes from the bottom of R4 to the two right hand side pins of the tube risers to the Tube PCB, from there it goes to the round negative pad of the LED itself, the positive leg of the LED goes to pin 5 of the tube which is the...

On the C2CE website on the "Drill Templates And Artwork Files" page there is a link in the text up top that goes to an example of how to order boxes with drill and paint files from Tayda. https://c2celectronics.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/07/Tayda-Electronics-Enclosure-Service-Walkthrough.pdf...

That would be perfect for what I am looking for, any chance I can have it ? Otherwise just a drawing would be great as well, I am used to making my own footprints in KiCad. Thanks Mick