Recent content by Tassieviking

The tubes can usually run on 12.6v +-10% but keeping it in the 5% range is better, and then we also use a 1N5817 diode that drops the incoming voltage another 0.3v to 0.4V. So we could safely run the pedal at up to 14.16 volts maximum but keeping it under 13.5 volts would be best, running the...

Hmmmmm.......I have never seen a 12AX7 tube used for V1 neither, and I think the XLR PCB is back to front as well from what I can see. If I had seen this on April 1st I would have thought it was a joke, come to think of it it is a joke since absolutely nothing is correct

If you do mod it for more gain just keep in mind that next time you swap tubes the new tubes might be hotter and might send the pedal into oscillation, Try to find the limit and then back off a bit would be the best approach I think. And as always, please share what you find so the rest of us...

If you are using the XLR then try swapping the tubes around, the XLR is only using the tube on the left if I remember correctly so put the right tube in the left socket. If that works then you need a new tube.

I placed that capacitor on the other side of the PCB when I used a BTDR3 module on one of my builds, it can lay down perfectly between the pots.

The size of the wire makes no difference to HV, it is the insulation on the wire that matters. Make sure the wire is rated for high voltages, usually any wire that is rated for household mains wiring should be ok but check the rating to be sure. Also make sure any switch you use is rated for the...

I would like to see pictures even if there were no problems, more pictures everyone..........please !

That little PCB would fit so many projects where you have a XLR output, perfect for the back of an amplifier or a DI or ...... I just have to have a few spare in my little (HUGE) spare PCB box.

The paint files are great as usual as well as the drill files, I have a chrome green enclosure from Tayda ready to go for my next build. Edit: I see the XLR daughterboard is for sale as well so I might have to grab some for spares on my next order.

The pots we use do not have enough thread to go through a lot of wood so I think the pots would be best separate from the PCB, when I made my Les Paul guitar I got pots with long thread since I just went through the wood. The small 9mm pots can only go through about 2 - 3mm thick panels before...

The right switch would be a bright switch that removes C6 and C7 from the circuit. The left one is a Deep switch that lets me use a Bass guitar with the pedal, it adds 47uF caps across C9, C10 and C11 to let more bass through. I also changed C4 from 22nF to 68nF to let more bass through the...

If the XLR daughter card is used then all the components could fit on a standard 125B size PCB, I threw all the components on for a quick check. It would just be a matter of working out where the tube and pots should be located in relation to each other, and also mounting holes if needed.

Mine looks ok to me, but I guess I printed in the black version, I think.

Either the solder joints on C5 is bad or there is a small crack in the copper track on the PCB, for the Treble to work the signal has to flow through C5 and the treble pot. Check the resistance from the solder joint on the capacitor to the solder on the pot, also check the resistance from the...

I would like to ask Alex some things, where would you prefer the tube to be mounted on your bass guitars ? Next to the pots and switches or removed from them ? Do you have a preferred alignment of the pots and switch ? Do you need the HPF switch at all with your extra low frequency setups ? If...