Recent content by Tassieviking

I would like to see pictures even if there were no problems, more pictures everyone..........please !

That little PCB would fit so many projects where you have a XLR output, perfect for the back of an amplifier or a DI or ...... I just have to have a few spare in my little (HUGE) spare PCB box.

The paint files are great as usual as well as the drill files, I have a chrome green enclosure from Tayda ready to go for my next build. Edit: I see the XLR daughterboard is for sale as well so I might have to grab some for spares on my next order.

The pots we use do not have enough thread to go through a lot of wood so I think the pots would be best separate from the PCB, when I made my Les Paul guitar I got pots with long thread since I just went through the wood. The small 9mm pots can only go through about 2 - 3mm thick panels before...

The right switch would be a bright switch that removes C6 and C7 from the circuit. The left one is a Deep switch that lets me use a Bass guitar with the pedal, it adds 47uF caps across C9, C10 and C11 to let more bass through. I also changed C4 from 22nF to 68nF to let more bass through the...

If the XLR daughter card is used then all the components could fit on a standard 125B size PCB, I threw all the components on for a quick check. It would just be a matter of working out where the tube and pots should be located in relation to each other, and also mounting holes if needed.

Mine looks ok to me, but I guess I printed in the black version, I think.

Either the solder joints on C5 is bad or there is a small crack in the copper track on the PCB, for the Treble to work the signal has to flow through C5 and the treble pot. Check the resistance from the solder joint on the capacitor to the solder on the pot, also check the resistance from the...

I would like to ask Alex some things, where would you prefer the tube to be mounted on your bass guitars ? Next to the pots and switches or removed from them ? Do you have a preferred alignment of the pots and switch ? Do you need the HPF switch at all with your extra low frequency setups ? If...

Where do you get your 5814A tubes from ? Is it a local Au dealer ??

If you can find a Neptunium for sale you would get the Nobelium with one tube inside, I can't see one going cheap though.

Nathan, I have been wondering how it would be possible to add a variable HPF to the Nobelium, could it be done by adding a 500k pot in series with R18 ???? Ie R18 becomes 220k to 720k variable by a potentiometer, I was chasing a HPF from 30Hz to180Hz or thereabout but I have no idea how to...

I am not sure what you mean by this, in the Nobelium the first tube is used up to where the XLR is tapped off, the second tube is only used to feed the 1/4" output. If you don't need the 1/4" output in a Nobelium pedal you could remove the tube on the right hand side when looking from the back...

I remember that a local magazine in Australia once ran a project for a swich/pot panel on a guitar that was an actual PCB and all the tone caps etc were SMD mounted on the inside of the PCB, I think it was a bit over the top but the pickguard is certainly large enough to build a complete SMD...

Looks good, if you do add the bright cap I would use a switch so you can turn it on or off. I usually place bright switches between the input jack and the power jack on the top about 1/2" down from the top. If I install a deep switch it is always between the output jack and the power jack as...