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I usually use this one: https://www.taydaelectronics.com/mini-toggle-switch-spdt-on-none-on.html You can use this one if you want to have more of the switch stick out, but it is more fiddly to hold in position to solder it in place...

Nearly everything I can get my hands on, when the time is right I won't delay even a second to build the last one I know about. ;):LOL::ROFLMAO: I can't help myself The urge is just too strong. Cheers Mick

C4 is only at whatever voltage you supply the pedal with, since you should keep it at or below 14V DC maximum you could even use a 16V cap there very safely so I see no problem with using a 25V cap.

There are some great calculators for tube circuits if you want to learn some more, https://www.ampbooks.com/mobile/amplifier-calculators/ I use them a lot because I like to understand what is happening on any pedal circuit that I build Cheers Mick

I downloaded the build docs for the King Nothing in January 2024 and the link is correct on my build doc, just to let you know.

The top of R4 should be connected to ground on the PCB, then it goes from the bottom of R4 to the two right hand side pins of the tube risers to the Tube PCB, from there it goes to the round negative pad of the LED itself, the positive leg of the LED goes to pin 5 of the tube which is the...

On the C2CE website on the "Drill Templates And Artwork Files" page there is a link in the text up top that goes to an example of how to order boxes with drill and paint files from Tayda. https://c2celectronics.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/07/Tayda-Electronics-Enclosure-Service-Walkthrough.pdf...

That would be perfect for what I am looking for, any chance I can have it ? Otherwise just a drawing would be great as well, I am used to making my own footprints in KiCad. Thanks Mick

I have been looking for the footprint for wah inductors for a while and I can't seem to find any that I can use, I use KiCad to make circuit boards and I want to make some up to experiment with a tube driven wah. Is there any chance someone can drop some drawings of the inductors here ? Pin...

Nice build, it looks good and now I'm gonna have to try mine with a 12AT7 tube as well. The vents are there to show off the glowing tubes but are not really needed for ventilation since it is just the preamp section, not that much heat but I will always use vents anyway. I think he Bassdude is...

Did the cat catch the Yeti it's sleeping on ?

I have used pin headers and sockets to separate the PCB's in some pedals I've made, I also use them to connect the stomp switch to the main PCB in my C2CE (Sushi Box) pedals as it seems like a nice distance to set the stomp switch in the box.

Just dusted of my 50year old CRO and with all knobs on 12 o'clock I had the same out as in, with the volume on full I more then doubled the output signal. I like my old CRO with a real cathode ray tube in it. edit: I just noticed all the dust at the bottom of the screen in the pic, it has been...

What are you trying to do ? C1 and the volume pot makes a HPF at 0.2Hz so that is as low as you would ever want it. I have no idea how to work out the HPF of C2 but usually we use a higher capacitance for a lower frequency, C2 is marked as 47uF in the build docs.

The Wreckingball has a spare triode so it might be possible to use the spare triode for a clean channel similar to how the clean channel worked on the Supersonic. It would be a completely new workaround to fit all the extra bits on the PCB. The Bassdude also has a spare triode so on that one you...

The tubes can usually run on 12.6v +-10% but keeping it in the 5% range is better, and then we also use a 1N5817 diode that drops the incoming voltage another 0.3v to 0.4V. So we could safely run the pedal at up to 14.16 volts maximum but keeping it under 13.5 volts would be best, running the...

Hmmmmm.......I have never seen a 12AX7 tube used for V1 neither, and I think the XLR PCB is back to front as well from what I can see. If I had seen this on April 1st I would have thought it was a joke, come to think of it it is a joke since absolutely nothing is correct

If you do mod it for more gain just keep in mind that next time you swap tubes the new tubes might be hotter and might send the pedal into oscillation, Try to find the limit and then back off a bit would be the best approach I think. And as always, please share what you find so the rest of us...

If you are using the XLR then try swapping the tubes around, the XLR is only using the tube on the left if I remember correctly so put the right tube in the left socket. If that works then you need a new tube.

I placed that capacitor on the other side of the PCB when I used a BTDR3 module on one of my builds, it can lay down perfectly between the pots.