Recent content by tfTom

Hi everyone, it's been a while, took about a month for my op-amps to get here because of the whole tariff situation but I was able to switch them out and it turns out the op-amp was the issue. Must've been a faulty one from Tayda. Pedal works wonderfully now.

Gain works fine, so does the tone and volume knob. I replaced every box cap, took out the footswitch PCB and wired directly to the switch, upped C3 to 100nf, took it out completely, and still no luck. I'm considering just switching the build to vero but I'll wait until the op-amps I bought...

Both were bought from Tayda. Here's pictures of the board. Pots cover most of the back and I'm not home to resolder them right now lol

Hello everyone, it's me again. I've been working on a project that's been sitting for a while. I have a Tayda RAT clone I built a long time ago, it was my first ever build actually. The problem with this pedal is that it oscillates like crazy if the gain is turned up past 1/2 o' clock, you can...

They were Chang caps from Tayda, not too sure if they were already broken or if it was something I did that messed em up. Unfortunately I don't have anything to test them with so I don't really know what's up with them.

Anyway, here's pictures of the final product! It's my first time trying 3D printed stencils so it's a bit janky but I'll get better at it over time ;P Right now I'm just happy it works. Again, thank you all for the help, you guys were awesome.

While I was doing my initial research a while back, I came across some discussion posts talking about how some programs could be used to simulate circuits and test pedals before they actually took the time to build them. I decided to look into this, so I built the schematic from the PedalPCB...

Hello everyone, it's been a busy weekend at work so I haven't been able to work on the pedal until today. I do have some good news for you though! I'll make a separate reply to this post explaining everything.

I checked the biasing and voltages, something's definitely out of wack after R12. I changed R15 from 470k to 680k but Voltages are still around 1 in the entire stack. If it's not a cap issue I'm starting to think this might be a PCB problem or something. Edit: Also tried no footswitch, but...

I'll check the biasing once I get home later tonight. Thanks for the link I haven't tried it with no footswitch, I'll check it out and see if it changes anything. I'll keep you updated!

I made sure they were back when I first started troubleshooting by using other examples of the same circuit. Should I look for resistance or voltage when looking at the resistors? Do you know around what values they should be at if it's voltage I'm looking for?

I'm using leaded at the moment, 63/37. As for the circuit, I went and got some proper tools and worked on it yesterday. I think I cleaned everything up very nicely, went through every joint and fixed it up/snipped any excess solder or component legs (I didn't have flush cutters until...

I lied, I just realized my iron is in C not F my bad lmao

Bypass works just fine and is louder than the pedal signal when it's on. My iron is at 320F, highest I use it at is 330F when I'm using solder wick. As for the scratches, I'm using my PC desk as a workspace so I don't have too much room and end up hitting the board by accident sometimes, and...

Yeah I kinda rushed this since school's been eating away all of my time recently. I'll clean everything up and see if there's any change.