jubal81
Well-known member
Normally open
Available soon: Bodhizafa analog reverb
- Thread starter jubal81
- Start date
Betty Wont
Well-known member
This thing made my decade! Amazing work, thank you, it is quiet running with big bold headroom. Boi-oing!!
jubal81
Well-known member
Betty Wont
Well-known member
Good ol’ 9v 1 Spot.
Betty Wont
Well-known member
Finally stopped playing with it long enough to button it up. I went with the larger isolated RCA jacks that Tayda sells. I staggered the jacks a little bit to get them to fit nicely. And those heat sinks are no joke. They get ripping hot real fast. I almost think I’ll add vents to the foot of the enclosure.
jubal81
Well-known member
Love it! Great idea with the jacks.
I've let it run for over a week straight at a time without any issues. Don't believe you're gonna need vents.
Betty Wont
Well-known member
I fully believe I don’t NEED vents, but I kinda WANT vents. lol. My tube pedals barely get warm and they get bad ass looking vents.
Betty Wont
Well-known member
I don’t have a pedalboard or any always-on effects. This is going to live on the cab, next to the head, wired up with short runs, to stay. I’m still giddy.
jubal81
Well-known member
The switch is configured so if you ever wanted to, you could leave the pedal by the amp and just run wires to a remote footswitch. I thought someone might want to build it into an amp or set it up that way.
Betty Wont
Well-known member
I think the layout and switching is super clever. Smooth, fast, quiet. The whole thing could be hardwired into a combo amp build. I even considered just using quarter inch jacks for the send and return and using quarter inch to RCA cables. I like keeping channel A all the way down as a startup bypass/home base situation, and then channel B set to the amount of drip I want. Which is all. …all of the drip.
SpringReverbFan1234
Member
Mine literally just made it to my mailbox within the past hour. Still super excited.
anevilspar7an
Well-known member
I think my build is going to be TRS to dual mono RCA using dual unbalanced ribbon cable. I think Mogami has W2528 for that application. Your build definitely looks clean.
Feral Feline
Well-known member
I've been avoiding this thread, 'cause I really Wont, I mean want, this but I've no need — which has never stopped me before, but ... Betty, damn!
pricklyrobot
Well-known member
Got mine on Saturday!
I also got some Disappearing Act PCBs a little while ago. Thinking I’ll try to build them up side by side and have a little spring shootout.
Dostradamas
New member
How does one aquire a kit ?
jubal81
Well-known member
You can send me a DM. I have 3 kits left.
SpringReverbFan1234
Member
Today I drilled the faceplate holes (in the enclosure), soldered the components, soldered the pots. My first time ever using a faceplate, makes it easy and hides drilling mistakes. Totally awesome so far
Now I have to drill the top jacks and the switch. I'm not sure what switch to use, I have a tayda "full tone" short shaft one, a similar tayda one with the lugs vertical, and a clicky alpha compact momentary dpdt w/ pcb pins. Any of them will be a close fit under the heatsinks. I raised the board up on the pots, raised the mosfet/317 up off the board, but it'll still be tight. Or I can mount the switch in a corner, but part of it will still have to fit under the heatsinks. A cheapo tayda push button would work and be a lot smaller, but I'm out of those. Probably gonna go with the "full tone" tayda one.
Then I'll drill out the top jacks. A big THANK YOU to Betty Wont for going first. That's exactly how I want them.
Now I have to drill the top jacks and the switch. I'm not sure what switch to use, I have a tayda "full tone" short shaft one, a similar tayda one with the lugs vertical, and a clicky alpha compact momentary dpdt w/ pcb pins. Any of them will be a close fit under the heatsinks. I raised the board up on the pots, raised the mosfet/317 up off the board, but it'll still be tight. Or I can mount the switch in a corner, but part of it will still have to fit under the heatsinks. A cheapo tayda push button would work and be a lot smaller, but I'm out of those. Probably gonna go with the "full tone" tayda one.
Then I'll drill out the top jacks. A big THANK YOU to Betty Wont for going first. That's exactly how I want them.
jubal81
Well-known member
The "mushroom switch I use is pretty tall, too. First try at it I mounted the TO-220s too low so i desoldered them and remounted the farther up the Z axis. The BBS enclosure was tall enough.Today I drilled the faceplate holes (in the enclosure), soldered the components, soldered the pots. My first time ever using a faceplate, makes it easy and hides drilling mistakes. Totally awesome so far
Now I have to drill the top jacks and the switch. I'm not sure what switch to use, I have a tayda "full tone" short shaft one, a similar tayda one with the lugs vertical, and a clicky alpha compact momentary dpdt w/ pcb pins. Any of them will be a close fit under the heatsinks. I raised the board up on the pots, raised the mosfet/317 up off the board, but it'll still be tight. Or I can mount the switch in a corner, but part of it will still have to fit under the heatsinks. A cheapo tayda push button would work and be a lot smaller, but I'm out of those. Probably gonna go with the "full tone" tayda one.
Then I'll drill out the top jacks. A big THANK YOU to Betty Wont for going first. That's exactly how I want them.
Agreed on @Bettywont. Much smarter drill pattern than mine.
Dostradamas
New member
I think I am too new, just joined today.
I get a message that I can only start a conversation with a staff member when I try to DM you.
Dm me if u like.
I will check into it tomorrow
Thx
I get a message that I can only start a conversation with a staff member when I try to DM you.
Dm me if u like.
I will check into it tomorrow
Thx
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