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So, like measuring voltages for troubleshooting, black to ground and the red probe to the part in question. In the schematic above you have 3 transistors that get powered. Measure the voltages at the collectors and base of all three. You don't need emitter voltages since they're tied to ground...

I've updated my previous comment above. Start measuring voltages and you'll find the culprit pretty quick. I did a deeper dive of Devi Ever circuit blocks a few years ago. Most Devi Ever circuits are a handful of circuit blocks done in different orders. Chuck and I had a discussion too...

I've breadboarded from this exact schematic. You mention Q1 (the first 2N2222A). It does absolutely nothing sonically. The biasing comes from the 2M2 resistor. All the biasing comes from the 2N2222A due to the voltage drop. That 2M2 resistor does nothing. Similar to how you'd throw a BJT in a...

This circuit is definitely on my 'to breadboard first' considering the parts count. Awesome looking build inside and out!

You also don’t have the bottom row powered via VDD as per the Little Debbie schematic. That will bias the opamp properly and the volume control working

Run your iron through the tracks to clear out those potential solder bridges.

While they are similar topologies, they are different circuits. The Candid has a different gain structure and hard clippers. The Canis has more EQ controls. Adding hard clippers will drop the overall volume of the circuit.

In nearly all stripboard builds there are 4 main wires: input, output, power, and ground. Power and ground are pretty basic. Input and output are in relation to the stomp switch for all intents and purposes, not the jacks. It’s pretty common to have you signal starting/ending on a potentiometer...

Is there a surefire way to tell (other than the darned thing doesn't work) if a mosfet has been damaged due to static or other type of charge? Will the voltage readings be off or will it test different when using, say, a TC-1? In my current circuit I've got not signal going through a BS170, D-S...

I should have done this years ago, but make yourself a template out of a spare enclosure or lid(s). The template will have the layouts for 3, 4, and 6 pot boards. Drill these in separate areas (i.e drill the 4 pot layout on the top and the 6 pot layout near where the footswitch will go. The 3...

I usually go by lead length rather than the shape of the bulb. Still, good catch!

I too have kind of taken a step back with building. I agree, pedals can feel like toys and take away from when all you want to do is play/practice. Awesome build and welcome back! Hope to see you around here more often.

Cool artwork! Amp in a box pedals sound best to me in the fx loop rather than in front of the amp. I just found that out during my practice session today using this circuit!

With your method I think it will work just fine.

Kind of. Start with Q1 and bias to half the voltage (approx) and go down the line. Then repeat (you'll need to readjust nearly all of them again). Then tweak by ear.

Can you share a link for the transformer? Definitely interested in building this.

Here's a relatively quick demo of the Nebula Drive. Forgive the shoddy iphone work.

I would say so, yes. I mean, could I make fully CW brighter? Yes, but then it becomes too piercing. Super dark settings might be useful to some people.

No, I'm saying that turned up to 10 is the brightest setting and a bit too dark CCW past, say, 9 o'clock. Around noon and it sounds like my neck pickup

Oops. No. Pin 3 of the TONE pot is on the top in my schematic