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I like 3PDT PCBs as an opportunity to reduce offboard wiring and solder them straight to headers on the main PCB. Sure it's more solder connections, but it's less wire used and saves time overall. Even without header pins though, they help to keep the innards tidy and despite being more solder...

Yeah I get that people like testing things to be sure, but if I didn't trust the manufacturer to print the write value on the resistor, I just wouldn't buy from that manufacturer. Checking one or two here and there is fine, but if I had to test every single resistor I used I would be up all...

There are a couple pictures in this thread and suspicions that the "Ska" is based on an Electra, but nothing conclusive.

Two-channel Dumble ODS preamp. Hopefully this one is cool.

I may have been looking at something else and/or typing with my eyes closed, apologies for the confusion. 0.25mm is a good start, but if you're doing something on the higher end of the gain things you'll definitely want more than that.

The Unagi should hopefully be back in early April. I thought I had plenty on hand to last until then, but Sushi Box production shares transformer stock with C2CE, and with a new run of Neptunium the transformers quickly started disappearing. The last few orders only took 6 weeks to build, but...

General note: if you're going to be doing a ground fill, don't bother drawing ground traces. It takes up space that could be used for other signals and can cause unnecessary vias and sloppy routing to go around things that aren't going to be there permanently. When I'm doing 2-layer boards with...

270Ω + 470Ω gets you to 740Ω In that spot in the circuit the value isn't super critical though, anything in the ballpark should be fine though, either 680Ω or 820Ω should work without issue.

Back when I was auditioning transformers the only place I was able to find them was direct from Jensen, and I had to reach out to a sales rep and get a quote and stuff. Aliexpress seems to have a knockoff JT-DB-EPC for $17, I'll have to grab one to try out.

I put mats on my benches at home, but I almost never strap in. I'm in a humid enough place and the stuff I work with isn't super sensitive, but the mats are nice to work on and easy to clean, and I like having the option of strapping in if I ever feel like it's necessary.

Dude, keep your damn traces away from your damn pads. I'm home now so I have more time to do stuff like this. Everything circled in orange is a spot where a trace is too close to a pad. It looks like you're literally too close for manufacturing, they won't be able to fabricate this without it...

Yeah one of my friends tried it and was having trouble getting libraries imported, something about a filesystem mismatch. The program technically ran, but that's about all it did.

That is an important factor, I've heard from a few people that Diptrace just doesn't work on Mac.

If you're still open to comments, I will say some of your traces are WAY closer to some of the pins than I'm generally comfortable with. I would much rather have thinner traces spaced away from things than thicker traces jam packed everywhere. On typical designs I route things at 15mils (0.38mm)...

Having done both for years before getting my first CNC machine to mill boards myself, I would say etched boards are going to be less work, but if you're patient you'll be able to get good results with either. Once you get a few boards' worth of practice you'll start to get a decent workflow for...

I don't have anything against KiCAD, I've heard good things about it, but I don't have much good to say about Eagle. I tried it a decade or so ago when I was first getting into things, and everything was so unintuitive and clunky. It may have gotten better, but at the time it felt like they were...

I've been using the Shure GLXD16 for a few years now, it's been fabulous. The guitarist in my band has an Xvive U2, I hear good things about that one as well, similar idea to the one you bought.

Yeah that's really the only thing that would make me doubt the UV printing, I'm not sure it would be able to do the sharp corners like that, I would imagine they would be rounded a little as they get raised, but I'm not positive. It's still the best idea I can think of, but I'm not 100% sure...

Engraving could certainly get the texture, but both the detail and the coloring on the text gives me pause. On the black it extends all the way down to the "base" level of the plate, which would be extremely difficult to do cleanly on an engraved plate. My best guess is that it's a thick UV...

Definitely doesn't look like a PCB faceplate, not sure what it is. I'll agree it looks good though, and will also agree something about the pics make it look off.