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build the current lover so you don't have to deal with 18V supply issues. the old chap will not run on 9V. the only reason i didn't get the current lover was cos the damn pcb was out of stock when i went to order either or.

main difference i see is that one requires an 18V supply and the other doesn't. same reason why i haven't built my old chap pcb yet --> i need to build a fucken 18V supply first.

ayy cheers 🤙 must have missed your comment (was on annual leave last week) definitely a fun build, would be an awesome candidate for a PTP build, but sadly there's no metal can version of an LM386. i've also noticed with this thing that while it can be nicely boosted by other drives/fuzzes...

ok so i ended up getting the chipquik 63 37 2% shit works well! the 63 37 alloy seems to have a bit of a 'stickiness' to it. but no complaints here. flux fumes? let's just say it's probably a good thing that it smells that rank that it's forcing me to use the exhaust fan every time. and...

this is my exact experience. even with ones where multiple images are posted of examples showing nice gains around 80-120, well i got fuck all of those, highest i got was an 87. (RG keen test method) another problem with expectations is that nobody ever fucken mentions their testing methods, so...

sure is thicc. it’d be sad if it wasn’t, being a supposed impression of a cranked sunn model t and all

a few weeks ago i had a squizz at this circuit on the breadboard, and was immediately enjoying the thick crunchy blown out saturated drive that comes from this thing. it's sick. [👉 grab an El Sol Distortion if you haven't already] i was yet to do a single knob build, this circuit was satisfying...

2SC1815 has a sound? as a buffer? never really thought about that, except one time i got a random comment on my youtube demo of a 2SC1815 based superfuzz, something said about 2SC1815 being mid honky or something like that, and i was a bit confused. never actually used 2SC1815 in a TS build...

pretty much any TS based drive, but my all time favourite boost for anything is the ST-9

the cheaper 400 point bb i got was a 'MULTICOMP' brand, it's held up ok, but with these busboard branded ones i've immediately noticed an improvement in quality. given the time that goes into it, i think it's well worth the extra cost

my first dip into breadboarding was with the Protoboard Micro and a 400 point tie board. it's an excellent setup. I was surprised with what i could squeeze on there (big muff, rat, tremolo), it's not just for fuzz faces and rangemasters. but the time came for bigger things and then i ordered a...

heck yeah! this is sick. i was gonna say, metal cans might be the way to go here... ...but @Feral Feline is already onto it. in fact - @Feral Feline - i was also looking for metal can LM386 the other day and yeah it doesnt look like they exist :(

🤔 without a manufacturer marking, might be suspect… this the one that went in my first rat build tayda sourced, clearly marked as made by texas instruments

everyone’s different i guess. and that’s a good thing. for me a 3PDT board is just inconvenient

yes. - input jack sleeve is the central node of a star ground scheme (as it is in all of my builds). - breadboard ground lead runs directly from this node (baking tray and aluminium mating surfaces were filed/sanded for maximum continuity)

+1 the mindset / habit of builders that insist on using 3PDT daughterboards , ill never understand. the most superfluous unnecessary shit of all time. - you're literally increasing the number of solder joints you have to do. - it takes longer to finish a build with a 3PDT daughterboard than it...

this is friggin excellent. would use.

i'm really not much of a fuzz expert, i assume these smaller old/vintage fuzz circuits are inherently pretty noisy, even when using silicon counterparts. (although i may be doing something wrong. i'm really not sure if a silicon fuzz face circuit is supposed to be as noisy as what i've...

probably. lets suggest you do decide a circuit, perhaps a unity gain stage to do preliminary testing to 'weed out' the bad/noisy ones. IMO, this is probably a waste of time. because as you say, and as many others suggest, whenever dealing with Ge transistors for a particular circuit, it is best...

i’ve bought a couple OP07s from tayda about a year ago or so. first rat build a while ago sounded fine. then i got some NOS LM308HZ opamps to try out. built a rat circuit on a breadboard to test them out and i compared them against the tayda-sourced OP07 - it didn’t sound that drastically...