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Very cool and useful. Now I don't have to go digging into the bowels of the internet for the calculator (was it Analog Alchemy?). I used another one for a Ge/Si switchable one I have, which I need to go back and fix. :)

I got mine working with two separate boards, two separate on/off stomps, a six way toggle for clipping for the tube screamer, and series/parallel. BUT, the series/parallel works, cuts the gain, but isn't super blendable and oscillates in one setting - so if you can figure that out better than...

Groovy

Cool. Perhaps after you rebuild it and get it running, we might be able to find the issue with the first one. Then, Stereo BE!

That is the correct pinout. 4 and 5 are NOT connected when you power the tube with 12.6vdc/vac. They ARE connected if you use 6.3 vdc/vac. In this pedal, it's using 12vdc, so no connection to pin 9 and 4 and 5 should not beep if you check continuity between them. I think Sushi said connect the...

If I read that pin out right, that should be pin 7 of the second tube, exactly where the drop of volume is happening. Check for continuity from the board to the pins of the socket on the other side and even the tube pin. Those should all connect back to the 220k next to the 330k. Maybe check if...

Okay, that's a great start. According to Mr. Sushi :), we have AC going to DC over the UF4007. Voltage drops across the resistors look okay. So now to figure out why there's not 250vdc. Looks like, to me, the issue is in the areas coming off the NE555 - the inductor, those resistors, and the...

I'm not well versed in SMPS, so didn't know there was AC on the 555 side of the UF4007. The more you know.

Okay. Don't pull any resistors or diodes yet! Measure them before you pull them, because then we can diagnose where the problem is. And I'll admit, I read through what you did with the tubes and I assumed you had plugged it in with the daughterboards incorrect. If voltage is good on both sides...

Honest question: Did the drop in volume follow when you switched tubes? If so, then bad tube. If it did, then bad tube. Things to check would be the voltages on both sides of R11 and R12 (the main resistors to the tubes). The two voltages closest to the SushiBox label and the 1n and 470p...

Well, that was interesting. I thought something was up with TL071s, but didn't think much because my brain probably thought TL072. My other thought was that you had a wrong value near the power section, i e a 100k for 10k. Congratulations on getting it working. Now to help others in non-working...

Self reply: Did you bias the BBD? You might need to check that. I remember it was a really narrow range when it wanted to work correctly

Ooh. That's starting to ring a bell with my build. There was weirdness around the MN3207 and no sound getting through. Look around that MN3207/daughterboard run area - it gave me fits. Check chip direction, cap direction, and even values. Even look at the diodes and FET/transistor direction -...

I had the same solid LED connected to the LDR (have a DeadEndFX board though). I'm not 100% sure what fixed it, but look at the panel LED polarity. I seem to think I had to switch directions? I'll have to go back to my bench and look.