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Last night I did swap in an LM833 instead... I'd sort of written the pedal off... but I dud actually enjoy it. Seemed like the sound wasn't as annoying as it had been... like the mid frequency wasn't quite as obnoxious. Does your build have a ton of volume in tap? Mine hits Unity at around 8...

What would be your second favorite op-amp in this pedal. Honestly im not really digging the sound of it... It's got a very percussive high mid nasal thing going on I don't really care for... like it has no low end or fatness to it in the Rock setting

I have heard this... I tried to consult the "manual" (pdf only), but it is kinda tech-speak. I admit, I'm a dumb hillbilly, and when it comes to "stop playing, hold this button, and while holding this button, push this combination til this light flashes, and now you will be in such and such...

Tell me more... because I have a new DL4 mk2 and I hate it... Whenever I turn it on it adds an unwanted boost and a low mid thing... I have no clue how to make it stop, and I was so pissed at this brand new, $300 pedal that I threw it off my board and put my 20 year old original DL4 back on instead

This is a good time to ask... So I've done audio probing before, but very... um... ghetto... I made a probe with a jack and cap wired to a precision screwdriver hooked up to a loop I recorded on my dl4... Is there an inexpensive device I can purchase to do a better job without being so janky?

This is why I hate troubleshooting... I currently have a LGSM/TS that I built that the tone control has zero effect on. Tested all continuity, tested resistance on tone control and all components, voltage on the caps, etc... but the tone control does nothing... All my solder joints are good...

Yeah, it's a really weird way to do it. Compared to most wiring schemes for switches that are sort of "standard"

I have two values, 220k and 470k... a mild gain boost... I replicated that on the new build as well

I feel ya, we're trying to do the same with ours, so I've been sorta spot reading as I go!

I'm fairly certain. The Pedal has sounded exactly the same since I built it quite some time ago... It really does sound good, but it certainly has always had tons of volume on tap. I'll have to try probing and see where it leads... It's funny, but doing this, I kinda hoped I wouldn't...

Are the red ones not the ones I circled in blue?

I forgot to mention that I actually went through the pedalpcb schematic and changed the appropriate values necessary to replicate the other circuit. in some cases they were labeled differently but I made notes to get them corrected

Yes I did, and it's good. I had it switched off

I have, and they are all correct values.

Also, my soldering was pretty substandard back then, however I spotted no bridges or any suspicious joints

One glaring thing I noticed was the unorthodox way they had me wire the switch. I guess it doesn't really matter with a 3DPDT, but it's certainly different than the way PedalPCB is laid out... I doubt this could be anything to do with it

You are correct... now I have 1meg.

Also, I wanted to preface the new version I made seems to be functioning correctly with a good volume sweep. So it isn't losing anything volume wise... the old Musikding kit is just VERY loud... I usually get above Unity at 9o'clock, which is very uncommon for a BB circuit... they usually...

Now that you mention it, I am using two different jack styles on these... I built the original when I had NO CLUE (well, some clue) what I was doing and it happened to turn out great... but now I'm trying to figure out exactly why it does so I can replicate it...

Hey folks... So, a long time ago I built a Musikding Bluesbreaker clone... I LOVE it... It has a great tonal Character and very loud... unlike bbs of old... I recently put together a PedalPCB Bluebreaker pcb using the same values found in the Musikding kit... it sounds really good, BUT... it's...